Crete 2022, part 5 (Heraklion)
I have already said that the Heraklion Archaeological Museum is absolutely great and even if the visitor does not see anything else here, which would certainly be a shame, the visit to the museum would justify the purchase of a plane or ferry ticket to Crete.
Crete has always been the place where commercial routes intertwined throughout prehistory and history and this quite clearly led to cultural mixtures and the development of ideas and knowledge. It was precisely this continuous communication among the peoples of the Aegean region, Egypt and the Levant that led during the Bronze Age to the onset of the first urban civilisation in Europe that was named “Minoan” after the mythical king of Knossos called Minos.
Although different natural disasters certainly had their impact on the life of the inhabitants of Crete during the flourishing of the Minoan civilisation, such as numerous earthquakes, as well as the cataclysmic eruption of volcano Thera on the present-day island of Santorini in Greece in the 2nd millennium BCE, they still did not endanger the Minoan culture to a large degree. It declined around 1450 BCE most likely as a result of some inner disputes and conflicts (or perhaps it was an earthquake after all). It was at this time that all the palaces, except for the one in Knossos, were destroyed and new dynasties were founded under significant influence of Mycenaeans who, among other things, also brought their script and so it is possible to follow the events that took place this long ago. All in all, some remains of the Minoan civilisation continued to exist, but already around 1100 BCE, Crete and its population once and for all became a part of the ancient Greek civilisation that developed on the mainland, thus losing their authentic identity.
As for this authentic civilisation, after the gradual development already from 7000 BCE, during the 2nd millennium BCE complex palaces started to be built and I have already written about the biggest and most important one, the one in Knossos.
Parallel to the development of architecture, economy, social ties and structures, there was also development of crafts and arts. This included wall paintings, miniatures, sculpture, pottery, goldsmithery and production of jewellery, processing of ores and metal, etc. Some of this could already be seen when I wrote about my visit to Knossos Palace, but all the originals and much, much more are exhibited at the Heraklion Archaeological Museum.
I took photos only of a smaller share of the exhibits and the selection that will be seen here includes some of the most important ones and some that I liked in particular.
One of the masterpieces of the Minoan civilisation is certainly a gold pectoral pendant which is for quite obvious reasons called “Bee Pendant.” It was discovered at the site of the palace in Malia and according to the estimates it was made in the period 1800-1700 BCE.
The museum also shows a scale model of Knossos Palace, made in line with the estimates of the researchers. Only when you see this you can understand the impressiveness and the magnitude of the endeavour to build such a complex building some 4000 years ago. This is important for those who believe that the civilisation started with mobile phones.
One of the more important artefacts found at Knossos Palace is certainly the Draughtboard, made using ivory, blue paste and rock crystal, with gold and silver details. It dates back to the period 1700-1450 BCE and its significance lies in the fact that it reflects the high standard of living at the palace.
I have already talked about the pivotal role of bull in the legends linked to Crete and the Minoan civilisation, so I will not reiterate it. But, reflecting this, the museum exhibits numerous rhytons, ancient vessels for keeping liquids used for ritual purposes, in the shape of a bull’s head.
The rhytons shown above were made of clay, but the museum also holds a stone bull’s head rhyton from the period 1600-1450 BCE. It needs to be emphasised that the left side of the head and the horns are the result of a restoration. Still, what did survive from the ancient times, including the right eye made of rock crystal and the iris and the rim made of red jasper, as well as the snout made of a seashell, unquestionably have the qualities of a masterpiece. It was found in Knossos.
Since I’m talking about rhytons, here is one in the shape of a lioness head made of translucent limestone. It was also found in Knossos and dates back to the period 1600-1500 BCE. Unfortunately, the fills of the eye and the nose that were certainly made of other materials have not been found.
Also made of fired clay is the famous Phaistos Disc. This is a disc with the diameter of around 15 cm on which both sides hold spirally arranged symbols, but it is absolutely unclear what its purpose was, what is written on it and even where it was originally made, although it has been estimated that it was made at the beginning of the 17th century BCE. Nowadays, it is considered one of the most mysterious and most famous finds in archaeology and it was discovered at the palace Phaistos in the south of Crete in 1908.
One other interesting object, which seemed “familiar” to me, is a stone, presumably, weight which is 29 kg and has an octopus relief. It was made in the period 1500-1450 BCE, has a pyramidal shape and was made of porphyry.
And there is certainly the original of the Bull Leaping Fresco that was found in Knossos and that I have already written about. This is the most completely restored fresco that depicts a bull leaping scene. It is believed that this could be some kind of the Minoan sport competition or a ritual linked to the coming of age.
This is not a unique depiction of the bull leaping scene, although it is not quite clear whether this type of activity truly used to take place in Crete. In the close proximity of this fresco at the museum it is also possible to see a well-known figurine made of ivory that also shows a young man at the moment when he is doing a dangerous somersault over a bull’s back. It was discovered at Knossos Palace and it is presumed that it used to be a part of a larger composition. It was made around the middle of the 2nd millennium BCE.
Needless to say, numerous double-axes can also be seen at the museum.
It is interesting, however, that the significance of these axes is still unclear, for they appear both in the size that would suggest their use as a weapon or a tool, and in the size and made of materials (gold, bronze, clay and ivory) which suggest a more symbolic meaning.
The Minoans were also very skilful goldsmiths and there are numerous artefacts that precisely show this, such as the Ring of Minos.
This is a seal ring produced around 1450-1400 BCE that was found in Knossos. The museum has also very nicely displayed an image of what an (enlarged) seal made with this ring would look like. This allows the visitor to see a myriad of details that convey complex religious meanings, including a couple of depictions of a goddess, since it is believed that the mother-goddess was in the centre of the Minoan religion. The detail that is particularly interesting is the Horns of Consecration that can be seen all the way to the left in the photo below, as well as in the engraved boat.
One needs to keep in mind all the time that because of its miniature size and the skilfulness in the creation of all the details this is a true masterpiece, for after all this is just – a ring.
The museum also displays other jewellery made of gold, as well as other materials.
But, since I’m mentioning the mother-goddess, one of the most famous forms in which the Minoan goddess used to be depicted is the “Snake Goddess.” The museum has two exceptionally beautiful artefacts of this kind. They were both found in Knossos and it is believed that they were made in the period 1650-1550 BCE.
Since I’m talking about goddesses, I must also mention a group of figurines made of clay in the 12th century BCE that were discovered at a site in the east part of Crete. Some of them have birds on their heads, some have Horns of Consecration, and there is also a myriad of other details and symbols.
However, what I found particularly interesting were their raised arms. Why? Well, the moment in time when I was in Crete, in May 2022, is of utmost importance here. It was the time of the Eurovision Song Contest 2022 and the Serbian representative was Konstrakta with song “In corpore sano.” In order to fully understand why I was rather amused by the raised arms from some 3000 years ago, one must look at the video of the Serbian singer’s performance at that competition. (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wLAYRJv6nQc)
This section of the museum exhibits various figurines made of clay, but there are also exceptionally pretty and very large vessels for storing food.
Soon I got to a limestone sarcophagus from the site of Hagia Triada or Agia Triada made in the 14th century BCE. On the longer sides of the sarcophagus, as seen in the following photos, there are numerous painted figures and symbols: the deceased, the offerings brought to the funeral, the priestesses, as well as double axes, horns of consecration, sacrifice in the form of a bull, birds, plants, etc.
There is also a myriad of other, less opulently decorated, but not any less beautiful sarcophagi.
Soon I got to yet another symbol which I easily recognised, since I had seen it the previous day at Knossos Palace (https://www.svudapodji.com/en/crete-3/). This is the depiction of the Figure-of-Eight Shields.
This is actually a fresco, but only shows the shields that used to be arranged in a line on the walls. The shields were the main defensive weapon and they probably carried that symbolism as well, so decorating the walls with their images augmented the defensive capability of, let’s say, Knossos Palace where this particular fresco was found.
It is important to note how small a number of fragments have actually survived to date and what we see today is in fact how the contemporary restorers believe that the whole image may have looked like. This is also the case with most of the other frescoes that can be seen at the museum.
Below are the photos of the original frescoes, that is, of their remains and the restored pictures made on the basis of the discovered fragments. Some of these I have already written about, some others not, but in any case it is interesting to pay attention to details, as well as to enjoy the possible version of the overall depiction. All of these frescoes come from Knossos Palace.
I have already mentioned before (https://www.svudapodji.com/en/crete-2/) that the Cup-Bearer is the only life-size figure from a Minoan fresco whose head and torso have been preserved. It used to be a part of a composition which the explorers named the Procession Fresco. Out of this fresco that depicted 23 figures, mostly the feet and the cup-bearer have been preserved.
I walked around the museum a little more and after this wonderful visit I concluded that it was high time for me to make a break. That’s why I went to one of the incredibly numerous cafés/restaurants in the town in order to have a coffee there. Very leisurely. For I needed a little more time before moving to another restaurant along the shore where I wanted to have my lunch. It seemed that the relaxation and lazing around were getting under my skin. Admittedly, I thought, if I continue this way, an unplanned quantity of blubber will also get under my skin. And that would not be so good. That’s why I kept moving between cafés and restaurants, rather than taking it all at one place, without any walk in between. It is important to introduce balance and physical activities into one’s existence.
So, after a while, I headed for the shore and again I was impressed by the views at the Venetian Fortress and the old port.
Then I went down, closer to the sea, thinking that I would have lunch in one of the restaurants along the promenade. Meanwhile I walked past another restaurant where I noticed two Greek families with children sitting at a table and that crowd seemed very content. Still, I continued to the restaurants I had originally planned to go to. Once I got there, I realised that these were “fancy” places. I am not a “fancy” person. I don’t care if other people see me in some place or if I see somebody. I thought that nothing was particularly impressive there. Not even the view was spectacular, so I just took a couple of photos and went back to the restaurant that I had already passed. The view was even less attractive there, but I did not care much. In the end I was very content. Finally, the food in Crete and I started to agree well. I even had a large beer, which I normally don’t do during a day, but this was only to serve as an inspiration for going back to the room and having a nice rest.
On my way back to the room I walked again by the Church of St. Titus, so I thought why not take photos also when the Sun shines with all its might.
I used this afternoon break to make further plans about my trip, since I had most of it still quite open. At first I was in two minds and indecisive, but over time the plan started to get quite a good shape, although I did leave the details of the second week for later. Have I mentioned that I actually came to Crete for two weeks or rather for 17 days? Oh, yes. That was a good and more than a well deserved vacation.
During this break I also followed on the internet the results of a tennis match I was interested in and in the end I was quite content. So, I went for a walk around Heraklion afterwards and then I also took a seat at a café planning to have a beer, as usual.
Still, in the end I decided to change my routine and I ordered a cocktail. I was very pleased.