Fortresses and Churches in Eastern Serbia, 2024, part 2 (Radoševac, Braničevo, Kiseljevo, Ram, Kličevac, Stari Kostolac)
On the territory of the Golubac municipality, there are a couple of more cultural monuments beyond those I mentioned in my previous travel story, but they are not located in the town centre. The first one I wanted to see is in the village of Radoševac, about 3 km to the west. This is the House of Jelica Stričević, and the staff at the Golubac Tourist Organisation explained exactly where it was, although they also mentioned that it was not in the best condition. That didn’t bother me at all; in fact, I was quite delighted when I arrived at the house because it is very picturesque. On the other hand, it’s a pity to see it standing there, slowly being eroded by the passage of time.
By the way, here’s a map marking the exact locations and sites I mention in these travel stories:
As for the House of Jelica Stričević, it was built at the end of the 19th century and is still considered valuable in architectural, historical and ethnological terms, despite its objective condition, as it represents a typical traditional house from the Danube region.
The foundation is made of rubble stone covered with oak beams, while the walls are half-timbered with wattle infill. The multi-pitched roof is covered with Monk and Nun tiles. All of this can be clearly seen in the following photo, but I think the most beautiful detail is the protruding porch with six semicircular arches.
The next cultural monument I planned to visit is also located in the Golubac municipality, but further northwest, in the village of Braničevo. It is the Church of the Holy Prophet Jeremiah.
This single-nave church was built between 1874 and 1876. On the western side, it features a narthex with a bell tower above it, while at the end of the nave is the altar apse, along with shallow side choir apses. The facade decoration is harmoniously done, with pilasters between which there are semicircular niches containing windows, topped with a multi-profiled roof cornice. The altar apse is polygonal on the outside and looks very elegant.
The western facade is simple, yet it looks quite pretty as well.
Although I entered through the southern portal, it turned out that the main entrance was also open and the view through the church from that direction is exceptionally beautiful.
The frescoes are of more recent date, while the icons in the iconostasis are from 1877. However, the church also has a couple of icons from 1838, as well as valuable liturgical books and liturgical items.
There was no one in the church, but there was a table with candles and other items for sale, so I picked up a few candles to light in the narthex and left the money on the table. However, I also saw a few bottles of wine, but there was no price displayed. When I stepped out of the church, I heard voices coming from the priest's house located in the yard, so I introduced myself and it turned out that the priest's wife and their adorable little son were there. I asked about the price of the wine and the woman kindly began calling her husband on the phone since he wasn't there at the moment. In the end, we found out the price, I bought a bottle of wine, while enjoying the company and the smile of the lovely little boy. Now I could move on.
This meant I drove to the village of Kiseljevo in the Veliko Gradište municipality, where I wanted to see the Church of St. Nicholas. Although I had spoken with the priest the previous day, who told me he would inform the churchwarden to keep the church open, that wasn’t the case. Either the man forgot, or there was another reason why the church needed to be locked.
In any case, even as I approached the church, I could see that it was very distinctive.
This church is a designated cultural monument and dates back to the first half of the 19th century. It is a single-nave church measuring 15.41 m long, 6.85 ms wide and 9.80 m high. The ground plan is elongated, featuring a wide altar apse on the east and smaller semicircular choir apses that were added later.
The church is now plastered, so it’s not visible that it was built from rammed earth, which makes it a rare example of that type in Serbia. However, it’s worth mentioning that in 1981, structural reinforcement was done using modern materials in order to preserve the church. It was once covered with reeds, but today the roof is tiled with beaver tail tiles.
So, I couldn’t enter, but I did peek through a window and managed to take a photo.
Inside, the ceiling is made of matchboard, while the iconostasis is wooden, featuring valuable icons from 1826 and 1836.
In the churchyard, the locals erected a monument in 1928 to commemorate the fighters who fell in the wars from 1912 to 1919. The monument is a tall obelisk made of black granite, topped with a bronze figure of an eagle with outstretched wings. However, after World War II, the churchyard was reduced and the fence was moved closer to the church, so the monument now stands in a public area that looks like a small square.
Since upon my arrival I had noticed that the Danube was very close, before continuing my drive, I took a walk to a nearby spot called Jankov Brod Beach.
Actually, this was Srebrno jezero (Silver Lake), which was formed from an old branch of the Danube River (closed off by two dams) and today it is a popular tourist destination. In October, the beach was quite deserted.
Now I headed to the village of Ram, which also belongs to the municipality of Veliko Gradište, where there are two immovable cultural monuments, both of great significance.
The first one is the Lederata Roman Fortress, which is actually an archaeological site. However, even before I set out on this day trip, I knew that there wouldn’t be much for me to see at the site, as it’s another archaeological location that hasn’t been developed. On the other hand, when looking at a satellite view on Google Maps, the outlines of the castle that once stood there are clearly visible.
This site involves one of the largest auxiliary castles along this section of the Danube limes (the fortified boundary of the Roman Empire), built in the late 1st century CE. Its excellent strategic position on a gentle rise overlooking a wide stretch of the Danube allowed for effective control of the river traffic and protection of river crossings. The castle measures about 200 x 145 m, with towers at the corners and gates, as well as a moat, the remnants of which can still be discerned on the site.
The castle fell into neglect in the second half of the 2nd century and throughout the 3rd century, during which it physically diminished. However, it regained significance in the 6th, 7th and 8th centuries, leading to its development and renovations in accordance with its renewed importance.
In contrast to the Lederata Roman Fortress, which is practically invisible, the other immovable cultural monument of great significance in Ram, located less than 900 m to the west in a straight line, can be easily explored. This is the Ram Fortress, built by the Ottomans in 1483.
The fortress was built on the remains of an Antiquity-Byzantine structure on a cliff that rises on the right bank of the Danube that is quite wide in this part, giving the fort an exceptional strategic position. Just like in the case of the Lederata Roman Fortress, it was possible to monitor closely what was happening along the Danube from here, as well as on the left bank, which initially belonged to Hungary or Austria-Hungary during the Ottoman presence in this part of the Balkans. From 1521, when the borders of the Ottoman Empire expanded northwards, the fortification lost its significance, but during the 18th century, at the time of the Austrian-Turkish wars, it became important again. The Ottomans finally abandoned it in the first half of the 19th century.
I first went down alongside the eastern rampart of the fortress in order to enjoy a nice view of the Danube from the wide plateau.
I also had a good view of the place where the ferry departs to the other side of the Danube and the town of Stara Palanka.
Before entering the fortress through the keep, I first captured the view of the Danube to the west of Ram.
And then I began the tour of Ram Fortress.
The ground plan of the fortress, which is now a cultural monument, is in the shape of an irregular pentagon. At the corners there are towers, connected by defensive walls the thickness of which ranges from 1.87 m to 3.35 m. The longest side, or the longest wall, is the western one and at its southern end there is the keep. The approximate dimensions of the interior space are 25 x 35 m. Thus, the fortress is not large and can easily be explored, provided that visitors climb to the top of the walls.
Upon entering, I immediately ascended to the wall walk at the southern end of the western wall, from where I had a lovely view of the remaining walls and the inner space.
In the previous photo, to the lower left, the remains of an Antiquity-Byzantine structure with a circular foundation and a diameter of 11 m can be seen in the shade. This will be more visible in some of the following photographs. For now, I continued my tour by following the wall walk.
Besides the main tower, the keep, there are four additional towers, each with a ground floor, two upper floors and a platform at the top. Each floor features three cannon embrasures. Only the keep has three floors and two platforms at the top.
As for the remains of the circular plan Antiquity-Byzantine structure, its walls are 3.30 m thick and it has no entrance or any openings. It was once covered by a dome. Research suggests that it was a sacral building. During the Ottoman period, it was modified and served as a replacement for the destroyed and abandoned keep.
At the top of the ramparts there is a crenellated parapet. When peering between the crenellations, a beautiful view unfolds.
In order to get through the towers, there is a pathway that has been adapted to modern needs.
By the way, the fortress is made of rubble stone bound with good lime mortar.
In close proximity to the fortress there are the remains of a caravanserai that was built at the same time as the fortress. Within its ruins there is the Church of St. Archangel Michael.
Across from the entrance to the former caravanserai there is a small Ram Fortress Museum, where various exhibits found at the site are displayed.
I was starting to worry about my visit to Viminacium since I had read it closed at 5 PM, but I knew I needed to arrive at least an hour earlier to have the time to explore. So I headed that way, but the next cultural monument was literally on the way, so it made perfect sense to stop by. It was the Church of Saint Tryphon in Kličevac, within the Požarevac municipality.
The church was built in the Moravan style in 1902, on the site of an earlier church from 1830. Its plan is triconch, while the dome is set on an octagonal drum. Above the narthex there is a square bell tower, which also serves as a clock tower (though it wasn't working accurately at the time of my visit). The facade is very beautiful and elegant, enhanced by the warm tones used in the painting of it.
The western facade is particularly beautifully crafted, with a portal framed by columns supporting a pediment roof topped with a cross. Above is a mullioned window, on top of which is inscribed the year of construction. The church was open, allowing me to enter and visit with great joy.
The iconostasis belongs to the type of high altar screens and features 27 icons arranged in three zones. In addition to these, the church also houses 13 older icons from 1820, as well as a larger number of ancient liturgical books and items.
I particularly liked the subdued tones used for painting the inner walls, which probably contributed to the space emanating a special sense of peace and harmony.
Just a few dozen metres away, downhill from the church, there is a monument to the famous Karađorđe's vojvoda (military rank) from Kličevac, Milenko Stojković. However, since I was in a hurry, I decided not to go to it.
I arrived at the Viminacium Archaeological Park near the village of Kostolac around 4:05 PM, which was just enough time to start exploring this developed archaeological site of exceptional significance.
It is a cultural monument that dates back to the period from the 1st to the 7th century CE. The site includes the remains of a Roman city and legionary camp known as Viminacium. It was the capital of the province of Upper Moesia (Moesia Superior) and an important military and administrative centre. Of course, there were other Roman cities like this in various locations, but what makes Viminacium particularly significant today is that over time no city has been built above it, allowing the archaeological site to remain free for excavation.
Admittedly, it is located between the open-pit mine in Kostolac, where coal is extracted, and the Kostolac power plant, where that coal is converted into energy.
To date, several parts have been excavated, while the research continues. Right by the Visitor Centre there is the first significant segment – a necropolis that includes a mausoleum and cemeteries.
I bought a ticket that included a guide (official tours start every hour), but since there was no one else, the girl leading the tours and I set off together, starting with the Mausoleum and Cemeteries complex.
In the centre of the necropolis stands a mausoleum with a square plan measuring 20 x 20 m. So far, it is only known that a person of high rank from the Roman hierarchy was buried here. Surrounding it are smaller graves.
From the terrace that goes around, stairs lead down to the level of the necropolis for further exploration. In several places, human remains can be seen found in situ.
However, probably the most picturesque and interesting, yet also the darkest, part of the tour is the "descent into Hades." Here, visitors can descend to an even lower level, following the guide and using a flashlight or the light from a mobile phone.
At three points, visitors can "squeeze" into spaces that were once graves, where the stone lids have been left behind. The reason for this is that these stone lids are exceptionally beautifully painted, visible only from the inside under very discreet lighting, illustrating the idea that the deceased could "look" at such beautiful images. Of course, photography is not allowed here because the images are very sensitive to light.
I had been here before in 2007 with my parents and now I had the feeling that I had somehow photographed those lids from the inside, although I know I never use a flash in such situations. When I returned home and checked my old photos, I found that there were none of those images. What I want to say is that the whole experience is impactful enough that photography isn't even necessary.
Back in 2007, my parents and I took a further tour in an electric vehicle used for such purposes. Namely, several separate complexes that have been excavated so far are practically "scattered" around the surrounding area and while they aren't too far apart, it's certainly more efficient to travel from one to another in some kind of vehicle. In October 2024, I drove my own car, following the guide in hers.
However, there was another difference compared to 2007. For some unclear reason, the tour now did not include the North Gate or Porta Praetoria. But when my parents and I went with the guide to that complex back in 2007, we encountered the site director, Miomir Korać, who, as we were told, was personally leading a tour for some potential investors. Besides holding a PhD, he is somehow the most responsible for the development of Viminacium and is one of the best experts on everything related to this site. At that time, our guide told us that she had nothing to say because "no one can speak better about Viminacium than Korać."
The Roman camp (castrum) in Viminacium was built in the early 1st century CE, while the remains of the northern gate of the camp were excavated in 2002-2003.
From the mid-1st century, the VII Claudia legion was stationed here, successfully protecting the northern border of the Roman Empire until 441 CE, when it was abandoned during the Hun invasion. Although Viminacium continued to function afterwards, the camp was never restored to its previous level.
In addition to the military camp, from the 1st to the 4th century CE, there was a developed city here with paved streets, aqueducts, an amphitheatre and a port on the Danube (that was closer then than today, being about 4.25 km away in a straight line). Such a city certainly needed baths, as the Romans used these public baths not only for personal hygiene, but also as gathering places – much like modern cafés – for getting together, socialising and chatting, likely even discussing politics. The Baths complex was the next destination in the Viminacium tour.
The ancient Romans believed that maintaining good health required not only bathing and good nutrition, but also massage and exercise. Because of this, Roman baths, especially imperial baths, were large structures that included saunas, exercise rooms, libraries and even meeting halls. Moreover, the bathing process was not as quick as we often do today (taking a shower in just a few minutes); it was a lengthy ritual involving visits to various sections – starting with a warm water pool (tepidarium), then a hot water pool (caldarium), back to the warm pool, and finally ending in a cold water pool (frigidarium). I found it quite amusing when I read that if a Roman were asked why he bathed once a day, he would say it was because he didn’t have the time to bathe twice. It was easy for them since they didn’t have to work all day; they had slaves for that.
Today, the remains of such a public baths can be seen in Viminacium, preserved primarily at the level below the floor.
When I was writing these travel stories and looking at my photos from 2007, I couldn't help but notice certain differences. This is likely the result of ongoing research and restoration efforts.
It seems to me that back then, the remains of the floor heating system, known as the hypocaust, were more visible.
Back then, I also captured the remains of wall paintings and the floor mosaic in situ.
In October 2024, I also saw parts of the floor mosaic, but they were displaced, waiting for further research and restoration.
On this occasion, I walked around the remains of the public baths a bit more and then I was ready to continue my tour of the Viminacium site. It was time to visit places that weren't open to visitors in 2007.
One such place is the Amphitheatre.
I should clarify right away that the wooden amphitheatre sections currently visible are not the original; they were constructed recently as a reconstruction based on archaeological research. This was done not only to create a better impression for visitors, but also to host various events during the summer season.
The original amphitheatre, built in the early 2nd century, was also made of wood. However, it was soon replaced by a stone amphitheatre during the 2nd century, measuring 84 x 74 m. Based on the size of the seating area, it can be concluded that around 7,000 spectators could be accommodated here. The central part of the amphitheatre features an oval-shaped arena, with the dimensions of approximately 55 x 45 m.
In the previous photograph, the position of the eastern main entrance is visible, while the western entrance was directly opposite it, both located on the longer axis of the arena. Adjacent to the entrances were rooms for keeping animals, while the stone remnants of these structures can still be seen today.
The amphitheatre gradually lost its function, and its components and building materials were repurposed for other structures. Over time, in the 4th century, a necropolis was formed above the remnants of the amphitheatre.
All of this has been concluded from archaeological research, which not only clarified some details about the functioning and appearance of Viminacium and its various structures, but also uncovered over 40,000 archaeological artefacts, as well as around 14,500 graves.
Although the coal mine and the Kostolac power plant pose certain challenges for the archaeological site of Viminacium, there is also something positive that has emerged from them. In 2009, a complete mammoth skeleton was discovered at the open pit. It was named Vika. (I assume it’s named this way because the first mammoth skeleton found in Serbia in 1996 was discovered in Kikinda and affectionately called Kika.)
As far as Vika is concerned, along with other mammoth bones, it is displayed in a special area called Mammoth Park. This is a locked space containing paleontological finds buried in the ground, so visitors must come with a guide who can then unlock it.
Regarding Vika, the age of the skeleton is estimated to be one million years and it was found at a depth of 27 meters. Research indicates that it was a female, approximately 60 years old, standing about 4.5 m tall and over 5 m long. This would also mean that she weighed nearly 10 tons.
Vika belongs to a very rare species (Mammuthus trogontherii) and only about 20 skeletons of this species have been found so far. It is particularly significant that the skeleton was discovered in a completely anatomical position. It is presumed that the mammoth got stuck in sand and mud on the bank of an ancient river and exhausted itself trying to escape. After failing, Vika simply lay down and died from exhaustion, subsequently sinking into the mud, which is how she was preserved.
In addition to Vika, Mammoth Park features partially preserved skeletons of five other mammoths.
In the foreground of the previous photograph, remnants of some kind of a boat can be seen. As the guide told me, reconstruction is underway, while the specific details about the type of vessel and its period of origin are still unknown.
After this, the guide and I drove to the Scientific and Research Centre. As she told me, visitors can only enter the atrium, as the building is designed as a replica of a Roman villa, but the space is primarily intended for specialists and researchers.
My official tour ended here, so I said goodbye to the guide and took a little stroll around the area. Not far away is another covered section, the Roman Workshop Centre.
To ensure a camp and a city function properly, it is essential to have merchants and craftsmen. At this site, 13 pottery kilns have been discovered – 10 were used for pottery and 3 for brick production.
Here or in the immediate vicinity, various archaeological finds can be seen that were discovered beneath the fertile plain while the Kostolac thermal power plant operates quietly.
Nearby is the Limes Park congress centre with a restaurant, accessed by a wide path lined with stone sarcophagi excavated from the site.
Although I thought I might grab a coffee, everything felt so desolate and I was getting tired, so I gave up on that idea. On the other hand, likely during the season, it’s possible to come here for breakfast or dinner and try dishes made from original Roman recipes from ancient sources. However, it must be booked in advance and it requires a sufficient number of people.
Now I returned to my car and drove to another destination I wanted to visit that day: the Church of St. George in Stari Kostolac, which is a cultural monument.
This charming church was built in 1924 as a legacy of ship captain and ship-owner Dragutin V. Todić (1880-1928) and his wife Leposava (1882-1937). It is a single-nave church that features a triconch ground plan. Above the naos rises an octagonal dome, while a bell tower is situated above the narthex in the western part. The façades are richly decorated with architectural and decorative plastic, showcasing a Byzantine influence.
Unfortunately, during my visit, the church was closed for security reasons due to conservation and restoration work on the iconostasis.
From what I’ve read, the interior is as richly decorated as the exterior. There are a couple of icons created by one of the most famous Serbian painters, Uroš Predić (1857-1953), and there are even stained glass windows made in France, which are relatively rare in Serbian churches.
Since I couldn't explore the interior, I paid more attention to the exterior and noticed some interesting details. In the next photograph, on the path that surrounds the church, made of pebbles, you can spot a black anchor. Additionally, in the arcades above the windows, there are motifs resembling life belts with the names of ships and barges belonging to the benefactor. Quite charming!
In the courtyard, there is also the House of Captain Todić from 1923, but it is in very poor condition.
I was only while writing this story about my day trip to eastern Serbia that I realised that there is also a Memorial Ossuary for the Defenders of Kostolac from 1914-1915 in the courtyard, but I didn’t even look for it.
I think I will have to return to Stari Kostolac, but for now, I got in my car and headed towards Belgrade.
Due to the construction works on the highway around Požarevac, I took a few detours, but I arrived home a bit later, feeling somewhat tired, but extremely pleased with what I had seen and visited on this day.