Jordan 2022, part 33 (Aqaba, Amman)
I guess after all that physical exertion, that was obviously just too much, the time came for me to rest. After all, my own body forced me to. The first night after my arrival in Aqaba I slept an incredible quantity of hours, but this was not enough for me to feel chirpy and enthusiastic. Well, I said to myself, this would be a mini-vacation, totally passive and perhaps a good preparation for the return and the obligations that already awaited me back home.
And yet, I’m not a person who can easily and readily give herself to leisure and laziness, plus I’m very practical. Since I lost my woollen cap in Petra and I knew that after Aqaba I would go back to cold Amman and freezing Belgrade, it was clear that I needed something warm for my head. The wide cotton scarf, more of a shawl, that I carried in order to cover my head when entering mosques, was simply not warm enough. That’s why I gave myself the task to buy some wool and simply knit a new cap. I did not like those that I saw around the shops in the downtown area, plus the offer was very modest since I was, after all, on the coast of the Red Sea.
First, however, I walked to the terminal of the transportation company that I planned to use in order to get back to Amman. I wanted to inquire about the times and when I should actually buy the ticket. Then I walked to a good hotel where I wanted to have a coffee basking in the sun. They offered that I had it while sitting inside in one of their bars. I did not like the idea, so I simply walked out. While looking for my “place under the sun,” along the way I passed by a site with excavations. It was closed, but I could see from the street what had been already dug out there.
These are remains of an ancient Islamic city of Ayla that served as a port in the period from 650 to 1100 CE.
It is interesting that the archaeological site was discovered only in 1986 and since then the researchers have succeeded in excavating remains of a couple of gates leading into the city, as well as those of markets and numerous commercial buildings. It has also been established that people used to live both inside the city and outside of it. Of course, everything was linked to trade and it has been proven that there were contacts with Ethiopia, countries along the shores of the Indian Ocean, as well as Far East, but most of the trading took place through the contacts with the Arabian Peninsula and Egypt. The land trade was linked to Syria and Iraq.
Very close to this site there is some kind of a royal yachting club with several cafés/restaurants and there I picked one that I liked most. I ordered coffee and relaxed. It felt good.
After a while, I went looking for wool and needles. Easier said than done. I walked to the part of the city with a lot of shops (while all of this was happening at only a couple of hundred metres from my hotel, since the downtown area of Aqaba is actually rather small).
These were most shops with finished goods, clothes, as well as kitchenware, mobile phones, footwear, spices, candies... and then I finally saw a shop with dressmaking fabrics. I asked a guy working there if they had any wool and then he explained to me that they no longer had it, but I could find it in stationary shops. What???!!! He even said there were two such shops nearby. I looked for them, unsuccessfully, but then in one shop I noticed four younger women of a slightly more modern appearance apparently buying something. I asked them, thinking that at least one of them would speak English and I was right. She showed me where the stationary shop was, I went there and indeed there was knitting wool, although the choice was not great.
In the meantime I even fantasised that perhaps I could find camel hair – exceptionally soft and highly regarded “camel wool,” but this is made of some particular camel species not living in Jordan. I had to make do with acrylic made in Turkey. Needles were also a problem. They did not have the kind that I actually needed, so instead I bought a crochet hook, for I am a multiply ready and adjustable woman. I usually knit my caps, but in extreme situations even crocheting can do. It was important that my head would be warm in the end.
Then I also stopped at a bakery that among other things made fabulous Jordanian sweets and this functioned like some kind of a self-service market. I went it, got the packaging and then took what I wanted. This was then measured and I paid for it.
Rather content, I went back to the hotel, changed into a swim suit and went to the swimming pool. Oh, yes! The temperature was not particularly high, some 17-18 degrees C, but the pool was tucked away from the cold wind that was blowing all the time, so I could sunbathe a little. I did not feel like getting into the pool anyway.
But, I did start crocheting my new winter cap while being in the swim suit and I had a lot of fun, laughing out loud, plus I sent a couple of photos to my friends showing different stages in the making of the cap in order for them to have fun, too.
When I had enough of the sun, I withdrew to my room, since I was actually still extremely exhausted. The good thing in all of this was that I booked a rather good hotel in Aqaba and therefore my stay in the room was quite comfortable and pleasant.
It was only in the late afternoon that I went out to go for a walk and to eat something, since it was clear to me that I could not get away with only the sweets I bought at the bakery. I was not very hungry, so I walked to a nearby place for which I got recommendation and which offered the local version of a very thin pizza, the manakeesh, with a lot of cheese. I love cheese, so this turned out to be a good and tasty dinner and the only thing missing was beer. But, I was in an Arab country that respects the tradition, so it was either completely impossible to get an alcoholic drink in a restaurant or this was rather difficult. Even in smaller grocery shops (I know, I inquired). So, in the end, I went to the bar in the hotel and had a nice and cold beer there. It felt good.
By the way, when I returned home later, I combined some recipes and in the end I was quite content with my own version of manakeesh. Here is the recipe:
MANAKEESH
- 300 g strong flour
- 1 tsp salt
- 250 ml tepid water
- 20 g fresh yeast
- 1 tbsp sugar
- 50 ml + 40 ml olive oil
- 100 g zaatar – spice mixture of sesame seeds, thyme, coriander, cumin, sumac and salt
- 150 g yellow cheese + 150 g white cheese
- nigella seeds
Dissolve the fresh yeast in the tepid water and sugar, and leave for a couple of minutes. Then add this to the flour already mixed with salt. Then also add 50 ml of olive oil and mix it until it comes together.
Leave the dough on a side for 5 minutes and then knead it for 7 minutes. Cover and leave to prove for 30-45 minutes.
The dough should be divided into 10 pieces and each one should be flattened by a rolling pin until it is thin. On five of such flat pieces of dough put the zaatar mixed with 40 ml of olive oil and on the other five the mixed cheeses that you sprinkle with nigella seeds. The rim on each piece of flattened dough should be free.
Bake on 220 degrees C, until the manakeesh gets good colour, while the bottom is well baked.
The next night I slept well and long again, and from time to time it seemed to me that my physical state had started to normalise. And yet, I was still far from feeling well and it was clear that I would need to continue to rest. Well, ok. Frankly speaking, there was not much for me to do in Aqaba and my plan for this day was the same as for the previous one. Breakfast, short walk, buying some more knitting wool (I did not have enough), taking coffee while sitting out...
During the walk, I went to a tourist office to inquire about an excursion to Wadi Rum and to start with they confirmed what I had already concluded when inquiring at the hotel and a tourist agency near the hotel and that was that the excursions to Wadi Rum from Aqaba were horribly and unreasonably expensive. But, I was also told how one can visit Wadi Rum at a more acceptable price. The visitor should first transfer there using the inter-city coach company JETT (leaves once a day, at 8 am). The coach drives to the Visitor Centre and there on the spot you need to pay for the ticket allowing the access to the protected area, unless you have the Jordan Pass, plus there on the spot you can arrange the excursion you want to go to. All of this together is certainly more than half the price in comparison to how much you would pay to be picked up in Aqaba and taken there. By the way, the same thing goes for Petra, with the note that there is an even bigger price difference in the case of the latter.
First let me say that the Wadi Rum Protected Area is a mixed natural and cultural property inscribed on the UNESCO’s World Heritage Site. This is a desert area in south Jordan, close to the border with Saudi Arabia, that includes numerous desert landscapes, narrow gorges, natural arches, impressive cliffs, etc, as well as petroglyphs, inscriptions and archaeological remains some of which are around 12,000 years old! Everything I had read about Wadi Rum sounds absolutely impressive and attractive, but at this moment I had two problems. The first and the most important one was the lack of energy, while the second one was linked to the logistics and the money. Under presumption that I do have the money, I am more than willing to give myself treats (to whom else should I bestow such pleasure and honour?), but I don’t like to feel bad in connection with this, which would happen, for instance, if I had the clear sense of being ripped off.
Here, at the tourist office, I thought for a moment that I might go to Wadi Rum in this way (inter-city coach, etc.), but, to start with, it was completely clear that I was physically still very weak, so I postponed the taking of the decision until later. The state of my physical being did not improve during the day, but the main reason why I finally gave up was that the weather forecast for the following day said it would be cloudy with a very strong wind. I had already experienced something of the kind when walking in the desert looking for Qasr Bshir, so I thought that I don’t need to repeat the experience here as well. All in all, my sightseeing of Jordan effectively ended here and I did what I always do in similar situations – I comfort myself the best way I can. For instance, using my favourite line for situations when something like this happens: One should always leave something for the next time. With a note that the next time I go to Jordan I will have both Wadi Rum and Wadi Mujib on my to-do list.
While I was still at the tourist office I remembered to inquire about an area in the north of Aqaba where it is possible to do bird-watching, but I was told it was winter and there was practically nothing to see there.
So, the only thing left for me to do was to kill the free time that I had thanks to the giving up on Wadi Mujib and Wadi Rum. This was not easy, but the good thing about the time is that it passes, no matter how slow this may seem sometimes.
On my way from the stationary shop where I bought some more knitting wool to the hotel, I passed by a shop with goods for beach holiday. I found the local customs quite interesting.
I also went for a coffee at the same restaurant at the yachting club. In addition to the coffee, I was treated to a piece of cake by the owner and then we had a very nice chat. After that, I just went back to my room. I even attempted to go to the swimming pool, but there was a very strong and cold wind, which made any lying by the pool utterly pointless. Regardless of all this moving around and basic “functioning,” all the time I felt without energy. Every now and then I worried or wondered whether I should start to worry. I had no pain, no cough, no sneezing, no fever... but I also had no energy either.
Luckily, the bed in that hotel room was incredibly comfortable, so the lying did not feel too difficult, apart from being extremely boring, since by this time I had already finished with the crocheting of my new cap. While killing time in my room, I noticed on the ceiling in the corner a mark that showed the direction of Mecca, certainly in the case that Muslim guests staying at that room wanted to pray.
Occasionally, I also looked out of the window of my hotel room. This is the view I had.
The next day I woke up again after very good sleep, but the very odd, deep exhaustion and energy imbalance were present, albeit to a lesser extent than on the previous days.
After the breakfast, I decided to walk to the inter-city transportation company, JETT, and their terminal in order to check whether they had a coach at 11 am. When I inquired they told me that they were actually not certain any coach would go at all or they would all be cancelled. What???!!!
They said it had snowed in the north of the country and for this reason the roads may be closed. What???!!!
Still, they gave me a phone number that I could dial and inquire the following day before the planned departure.
This did not suit me at all, but based on my experience, I knew I would find my way. I had the whole day to transfer from Aqaba to Amman and the weather forecast showed that the following day there would be no precipitation along the entire route, the temperature would be above zero and there were supposed to be even some sunny spells.
Just in case, I inquired later at the hotel as well and they assured me that everything would be fine and that the coaches would run, but in case they did not, the hotel would be able to provide me with some transportation. Extraordinary circumstances require extraordinary measures, as well as use of contingency financial reserves.
I could relax and spend yet another day lazing around and killing time. I also went for coffee at the same places as during the previous days, but this time I took a photo of a detail from ... Israel! The sky was partially cloudy and the shadows that appeared on the surface of the Earth created some very interesting effects.
Namely, Jordan has the access to the Red Sea precisely in the area around Aqaba. The length of its coast is almost 26 km. Its south neighbour is Saudi Arabia and its west one – Israel that also has a very short coastline, while the city that exists there and that is partially seen in the photo above is Eilat.
Afterwards, I strolled a little along the coast, heading south in the direction of the port. In one area, parallel to the city beach, I could see some small land parcels where some plants were grown.
The photos may create an impression that the weather was fair, even warm. It was not. The city beach was mostly disserted, apart from some people walking there.
Only here and there I could see a child that simply could not resist the temptation and had to venture in.
I even walked to the Arab Revolt Plaza with an enormous flagpole, 130 m high, that is best seen from a distance, but I did not have such an opportunity. The pole carries the flag of the Arab Revolt, lasting from 1916 until 1918, the goal of which was to win independence from the Ottomans (needless to say, it was all supported by the British who had their own interests in this part of the world).
Behind the square, in the photo above, you can discern remains of Aqaba Fortress built by the Mamluks in the 16th century. I felt too heavy and tired to go there. I merely went back to my hotel room where I continued to rest with the hope that I would feel better the next day.
Let me say right away that I did not feel much better, I still felt heavy and without any vigour, but I had no choice. I had to go back to Amman. Since it was becoming quite uncertain whether the coaches would run on this day on account of the snow that fell up in the north and the receptionists of my allegedly good hotel were utterly useless, I had to go in person to the terminal where they finally confirmed that a coach would indeed leave at 11 am. I returned to the hotel, got my things and went to the terminal once more. The coach left on time.
While I was sitting in the coach, I enjoyed this not moving and yet moving. The coach drove on the northbound Desert Highway in the direction of Amman. As soon as it leaves Aqaba, the road starts to ascent towards the plateau and already after some 70 km it reaches the elevation of over 1000 m a.s.l.
In that first section, the road passes mainly between rocky mountains and you can also see a wide riverbed with sporadic dams, since probably when there are heavy rains in this area there are flash floods that can have a devastating impact and therefore their action needs to be alleviated somehow.
If one were to go to the Wadi Rum reserve, which I talked about before, the road from Aqaba to take is precisely this one, but at some point, one needs to turn to the east. As for me, I could now only wistfully look at the perimeter sections of this area that I could see in the distance.
Still, I couldn’t help but wonder why a company that uses modern coaches for the transportation of passengers would even think of cancelling a trip. As it can be seen in the previous photos, everything was dry here, but at one point some snow did start to appear on the surface. There was not a lot of it and this was certainly not a problematic quantity by any means, but its presence speaks of the low temperatures that are usually not associated with Jordan.
The distance between Aqaba and Amman is around 330 km and it took the coach around 5 hours to cover it. This also included a break. There I took the opportunity to take photos of the surroundings, without this being from the moving coach and through a smudged window.
During my journey, I got the impression that the Jordanians are very clean people and I think that their homes dazzle with cleanness, but... Unfortunately, in different places it was possible to see piles of waste, either beside roads or in urban areas. It was here that I came across one such pile. It’s a pity that some people in Jordan don’t feel the need to keep their country just as they would their own homes – spotlessly clean.
After the break, we all got back on the coach and continued to Amman. Although the presence of Bedouins is more visible in the south, the Bedouins actually inhabit wide expanses in the east and south of Jordan, because this is where most of the desert is located in this country.
And then we got back to Amman.
It is a fact that we came across snow, but for me this seemed to be too little snow to be given any kind of significance. On the other hand, I am fully aware that the Jordanians are not used to snow and its presence can create problems in traffic.
I got a taxi from the coach terminal to the centre and soon I was at the hotel; the same one I stayed in at the beginning of my journey. Since all the employees at the hotel were extremely kind, open and helpful, this was almost as if coming back home.