Maldives 2023, part 3 (Maafushi, Fihalhohi)

The day after the "forced rest" due to bad weather, rain and strong winds was designated for relaxation, but this time the relaxation took on a somewhat "posh" aspect. Namely, we went on a full-day excursion to one of the numerous resorts that the Maldives abound with.

The group I was part of was given the option to choose between two resorts. I assume there isn't much difference between them, but when I heard that one had a pool, I immediately opted for the other. It's a matter of principle for me - I don't use a pool when I'm in a tropical area.

The gathering of group members interested in this excursion was relatively early, so we first walked to the pier and then we set off again by speedboat towards the south. First, we stopped at Olhuveli island, where a few people from my group got off and then I continued with the rest to Fihalhohi island.

Already from the wooden pier, I could see where I wanted to go first.

Fihalhohi island, a detail

Upon arrival, all of us who came here by speedboat were taken to a larger bar where they gave us wristbands and explained what we were entitled to during our stay.

Let me explain a bit - these resorts are often located on private islands and I assume they frequently offer "all-inclusive" services. Besides the guests staying there, some resorts also offer day visits for a few hours to visitors staying on other islands. Short-term visitors also get lunch, but it's also "important" to note that these resorts usually offer alcohol, unlike regular hotels and restaurants in the Maldives. The Maldives is a Muslim country and, by law, the sale and consumption of alcohol are prohibited. The only exception are private islands and some of the resorts.

So, the resort we went to also offered alcoholic drinks. Later, I had draft beer (which is the only option available, as there was no bottled or canned beer), so I can say that it definitely had a lower alcohol percentage than usual, but I think that is a frequent case in resorts. I can't say anything about other types of alcohol because I didn't try them.

But, the main reason for coming here certainly isn't to get drunk. After we received beach towels as part of the tourist package, I went for a walk around the small island. In fact, this seemed just right because I wanted to see what the island had to offer before deciding where to sit or lie down.

As it turned out, there are several beaches or sections of the shore and one of the first ones I came across had a palm tree that almost horizontally grew over the shallows, which was a very beautiful sight. That's exactly what I had first noticed from the pier.

Fihalhohi island, a detail

I found it additionally interesting that there was a wooden covered terrace where I could place my camera while I ran back and forth to take a few shots in the style of "professional selfies." I always find that very entertaining and I also like it when one of the photos turns out well.

Fihalhohi island, a detail

I continued walking along the path that ran past some bungalows, also parallel to the shore, i.e., the beach. At one point, I spotted a beautiful grey heron (Ardea cinerea),

Grey heron

After some time, I arrived at a very tranquil beach that I quite liked, so I took a few photos there.

Fihalhohi island, a detail

Still, I continued my walk further around the island because I wanted to explore it all to get an idea of what was all “on offer.”

So, from the "cape" after that beautiful, peaceful beach, I reached an equally beautiful beach, but the water there was more agitated due to the wind. These were not big waves, but it was certainly more turbulent. There, I mostly walked along the path between trees and past bungalows for accommodating guests.

Fihalhohi island, a detail

Along the way, I also noticed a small local inhabitant here. It was an oriental garden lizard (Calotes versicolor).

Oriental garden lizard

Soon I passed by an area where small overwater bungalows were built on this island. Over the last few decades, this has become a quite common trend on tropical islands and here in the Maldives such structures can often be seen.

Fihalhohi island, a detail

Not far from there, I came across a bar and decided to grab some water to quench my thirst, but then I realised I could also have a beer. I found a comfortable spot at a table outside the bar terrace and enjoyed the nice view and relaxation. Soon enough, two pleasant couples from my group joined me and we had a nice chat there.

Relaxing on Fihalhohi island

After a while and a couple of beers, we parted ways and I realised it was time for lunch, so I went to grab something to eat. I ended up sharing a table with an extremely lovely young couple. Following the lunch I headed towards that peaceful beach I had previously scoped out. It was a great move because almost nobody had returned from lunch and that beautiful beach was practically completely empty and just for me.

Fihalhohi island, a detail

To start with, I decided to film a tern, knowing it wouldn't stay there forever.

That was the right decision because I even managed to capture it while it was "having lunch" and as a token of gratitude, it briefly posed for me after swallowing a relatively large fish. By the way, it was a black-naped tern (Sterna sumatrana).

Black-naped tern

In fact, it wasn't strange at all for this tern to be flying and hovering around this area. Namely, there was a shoal of small fish swimming in the shallows and the tern was certainly aware of it, trying to catch some of them. I didn't specifically see if the fish it ate belonged to this shoal, but later on, it was interesting for me to see how the shoal reacts when, for example, I entered the water right where the fish were or tossed in a piece of lightweight coral there. My intention was certainly not to harm any fish and I'm sure I didn't, as none surfaced and flipped over.

I also noticed another lizard on the shore, which had now come to the beach, presumably to bask in the sun. I believe it was the same species of garden lizard I saw earlier, but this one was likely a female.

Lizard on the beach

I just had to take one more "professional-selfie" and then I could finally get into the water and enjoy a swim.

Professional-selfie on a wonderful beach

By the way, while I was taking all the photos I wanted, a man appeared also strolling around and, I believe, enjoying himself, but he left soon enough, so the feeling of having this beautiful beach all to myself still prevailed. I also put my mobile phone in a waterproof case so I wouldn't worry if it accidentally fell into the water, allowing me to take more photos and videos.

Enjoying the Maldives

However, while splashing around and enjoying myself, I wasn't completely self-absorbed. I was very aware of my surroundings and the beautiful visual effects.

Fihalhohi island, a detail

Then, I walked out onto the shore and found a hammock wedged between two palm trees, so I laid and swung there for a while.

Later, I went for another swim and once again took photos and videos. I probably overdid it, but it was so beautiful and inspiring that I couldn't resist.

Fihalhohi island, a detail

When I finally decided to move from that spot, I filmed myself a bit as I walked along the beach where the waves were lapping against the white sand. The footage ended up being like a real advertisement for a tropical destination.

Continuing on, circling around the island again, I reached those overwater bungalows, so I decided to walk around there and see what it looked like up close.

Fihalhohi island, a detail

What was probably even more interesting to me was a baby shark. I believe it was a blacktip reef shark (Carcharhinus melanopterus).

Blacktip reef shark

And then I went for another beer (or two) and once again relaxed, enjoying the peaceful view of the beautiful colours of the Indian Ocean. Before I felt it was time to head back to the pier, as we had limited time here, I took a few more photos of that part of the beach, as well as the dramatic events in the distance above the horizon. It was clear that somewhere it was raining heavily, although almost the entire sky was covered in clouds. However, due to the pleasant temperature and the absence of strong winds, beach enjoyment was at its peak.

Fihalhohi island, a detail

No matter how enchanting the place was, I had to go back to the reception in order to return the towel. Along the way, I marvelled at some strangely shaped trees and I also spotted a very interesting bird. It was a male Asian koel (Eudynamys scolopaceus).

Fihalhohi island, a detail

Asian koel

However, what thrilled me was when I noticed something moving in the bushes. First, I managed to capture tiny claws on camera.

What is this?

In the days prior, I had already noticed something large flying around the island usually in the evenings and it was clear to me that it wasn't a bird. It was an Indian flying fox (Pteropus medius), one of the largest species of bats. However, it's possible that it could have been a slightly smaller species – the small flying fox (Pteropus hypomelanus), but I don't think the nuances matter much here. Despite their impressive size, both species have a wingspan of over 1 meter, they mainly feed on fruits, although the larger species occasionally consumes insects.

In my attempt to take photos of this bat, I may have bothered it a little by circling around the bush where it intended to roost for the night. It kept moving, making it even more challenging for me to capture a good photograph.

Flying fox

In the end, I left it alone, while I continued along the path between trees, bungalows and other hotel buildings until I reached the reception where I returned the beach towel. Then, I headed to the nearby pier where the speedboat was coming to pick us up and take us back to Maafushi.

Fihalhohi island, a detail

The ride was pleasant once again, while soon the sun began to set.

On a speedboat dashing over the Indian Ocean

In the evening, after dinner, very content I went back to my room to do my usual evening activities before going to bed. I wasn't particularly tired, but I was shocked when the party started. It was so loud that my bed on the 6th floor was shaking. The fact that the "party" ended at 11 p.m. didn't comfort me in the slightest. It was by far the worst accommodation experience of my life. I absolutely have nothing against people having fun for as long as they want, but provided they don't disturb anyone. I understand that everyone has their idea of vacation, but I would never associate the Maldives with ridiculously loud music. On the other hand, this experience made it very clear to me that I'm done with travelling through agencies. Too many insufficiently clear or even outright wrong (albeit minor) pieces of information. No complaints in the end help because no one will give me back the lost time.

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