Since the weather in October 2024 was very nice, sunny and pleasantly warm during the day, and I was able to take some free time, I came up with a plan for a couple of day trips. One of them took me to Syrmia and the eastern part of Fruška Gora Mountain. The idea was to visit some sites that are considered cultural monuments or rather immovable cultural properties.
This part of Serbia has many such places, some of which I have already visited and written about (see three sequels that start with: https://www.svudapodji.com/en/syrmia-1/), but there is still much more that I plan to see at some point in the future.
This time, I decided to focus on the sites and monuments that can be seen on the following map:
So, first, I took the old road from Belgrade through Zemun to Inđija. Today, many people choose to take the motorway because it’s faster, but I went on this trip on a Sunday and I left home relatively early, so there was no traffic at all, so I had a pleasant drive to the centre of Inđija. There, I parked the car and then started my walk through the downtown area.
The first site I was interested in was the Roman Catholic Church of St. Peter, which is categorised as an immovable cultural property of great significance.
Roman Catholic Church of St. Peter
The church was built in 1872 and replaced an older, much smaller church that was located elsewhere. This single-nave church is quite monumental, covering an area of 446 sq. m, and it was built in a Baroque-Classical style. On the northern side, there is a semi-circular apse, while on the southern side, a tall bell tower rises. The front, southern façade is beautifully and harmoniously designed.
As for visiting the interior of the church, I even thought it was a good thing that it was Sunday morning, because that meant there was a higher chance the church would be open. And I was right. However, the Mass was in progress, so I carefully and quietly entered, staying at the back and briefly toured the church, hoping to disturb as few people as possible, as they were there for entirely different, spiritual reasons.
Roman Catholic Church of St. Peter
The interior is also monumental, with the nave covered by a semi-spherical vault. The space is divided along its length into five bays, separated by arches supported by massive pilasters. All the interior walls are painted and the decoration is very harmonious. Unfortunately, in several places, one can see effects of humidity or possibly water infiltration when it rains, but this doesn’t spoil the impression of the visually beautiful space.
Roman Catholic Church of St. Peter, a detail
The windows feature exceptionally beautiful stained glass and I took photos of just a couple of them.
Roman Catholic Church of St. Peter, a detail
Roman Catholic Church of St. Peter, a detail
While I was there, the priest was performing his duties and addressing the congregation. I did take a look around and photograph the interior of the church, but I was also listening very carefully to what he was saying (since I am a simultaneous interpreter, a part of my professional habit is being able to multitask). What he was saying was so beautiful and inspiring that I almost felt sorry I had to move on. I hesitated for a moment, listening to his wise words, but soon I left the church and continued my walk through the centre of Inđija.
When you cross the main street from the pedestrian zone where St. Peter's Church is located, you immediately come upon a square with a notable landmark: the Monument to the Podunavlje Partisan Squad in Inđija, which was erected in 1975.
Monument to the Podunavlje Partisan Squad in Inđija
Already in 1941, a squad of seven modestly armed partisans, mostly communists, began working on forming local partisan groups and establishing new party organisations. This bronze monument consists of a platform (0.35 m high), a pedestal (1.5 m high) and the figure itself, which is 3.5 m tall. I found it interesting to read the words inscribed on the pedestal, spoken by late President Tito (1892-1980) about the initiating of the national liberation war against the Germans, the Croatian Ustašas and other occupation forces – what a skilled politician he was!
Now, I had to cross Cara Dušana Street in the very centre to reach another immovable cultural property that is considered a cultural monument. This is the House of Đorđe Vojnović.
House of Đorđe Vojnović
The house was built in 1873 and belonged to the Vojnović family. Its floor plan is rectangular, with the main façade facing the street, while the entrance is located on the side, at the north-eastern corner.
As for the façade, as can be seen from the previous photo, it is very beautifully and imaginatively designed, with pilasters that separate four windows, the tops of which are connected by a pediment. In the centre of the pediment, there is a console in the shape of an old man's head, and there is also a whole host of other decorative details.
House of Đorđe Vojnović
After the death of his father, Đorđe Vojnović (1888–1975), who was educated in Sremski Karlovci, Osijek and Vienna, returned to Inđija and continued to manage the family estate. At the outbreak of World War I, the Austrians arrested him and he spent three years in prison. When he returned home, he found his estate plundered and in ruins. However, being a trained lawyer who had turned to economics, he managed to restore the estate and further develop it, and he also focused on the development of Inđija itself. In addition, he was my "colleague" as a translator, and he translated from German Heinrich Harrer's Seven Years in Tibet: My Life Before, During and After, just four years after the book was first published.
Đorđe Vojnović left his house to the municipality of Inđija and donated his large library of 6,000 books, several works of art and items from the second half of the 19th century to the National Library in Inđija. Today, the Vojnović House houses a gallery, but it was closed during my visit.
After this, I stopped at one of the many cafés in the pedestrian street where St. Peter's Church is located and it turned out to be a great spot, so the short break was quite enjoyable. Then, I went back to the car and drove to the Inđija Cemetery. There, I was looking for another landmark, which is actually a memorial.
The Memorial to the Fallen Soldiers and Victims of Fascist Terror was once located in the lobby of the "Đorđe Natošević" library, but it was later moved to the Serbian Orthodox Cemetery in Inđija. In the following photo, you can see where this memorial is currently located in relation to the cemetery church.
Memorial to the Fallen Soldiers and Victims of Fascist Terror is in the shade on the right-hand side
The memorial is dedicated to the residents of Inđija who suffered during World War II, from 1941 to 1945. It is made of white marble and the names of fallen fighters and victims of fascist violence are inscribed on it.
Memorial to the Fallen Soldiers and Victims of Fascist Terror
Now, I headed towards the settlement of Jarkovci, west of Inđija, but on the way, I passed by the Celtic Village and decided to stop there.
This is a tourist complex aimed at introducing visitors to the life of the Celts in the Syrmia region during the 3rd century BCE. The site is officially designed for both children and adults – children have an adventure zone where they can play, while there are also plenty of informational boards, so adults can enjoy themselves as well.
Celtic Village in Inđija
There is also a place where you can sit and probably grab a bite to eat or have a drink.
Celtic Village in Inđija
I first entered a small museum, which was primarily created from findings discovered during archaeological excavations.
Celtic Village in Inđija
The exhibition features examples of clothing worn by the Celts, as well as the materials from which it was made, tools and objects used in daily life, jewellery, coins and even musical instruments that the Celts crafted and used.
As for the clothing, it was mainly made from linen and wool, but during the winter months, leather and fur were also used. These materials were not only used for cloaks, but also for making shoes, bags and hats.
Celtic Village in Inđija
Celtic Village in Inđija
Celtic Village in Inđija
Celtic Village in Inđija
The site also includes examples of various types of buildings. In the next photo, there is a model of a bakery and visitors can enter inside to get an idea of what it might have looked like.
Celtic Village in Inđija
Celtic Village in Inđija
In one of these buildings, which depicts a blacksmith’s workshop, a young man, who was obviously working there, began to stoke the fire in order to make everything even more authentic.
Celtic Village in Inđija
Several different buildings are dedicated to various activities that traditionally took place within a Celtic village.
Celtic Village in Inđija
Since I myself practice pottery, I found it especially interesting to take a look at the model of the pottery workshop.
Celtic Village in Inđija
The Celts were exceptional craftsmen in pottery production and, from what I’ve read, they brought the potter's wheel (tournette) to these regions. Models of some everyday ceramic items can be seen in one of the photos I took in the museum, which I shared earlier.
Celtic Village in Inđija
I have already mentioned that there is an adventure area for children, so I just took a quick peek there. It was early, so I guess the children hadn't arrived yet.
Celtic Village in Inđija
This site isn't very large, so I was already heading back towards the exit, but on the way, I passed by the Druid House.
Celtic Village in Inđija
Celtic Village in Inđija
Druids were Celtic priests, but also doctors, prophets and counsellors. Interestingly, they left no written records behind and all of their knowledge was passed down orally.
Celtic Village in Inđija
After visiting the Druid House, I simply followed the path back to the exit and then I continued on with my trip.
Celtic Village in Inđija
The next destination according to my plan was the Summer House of the Pejačević family in Jarkovci. It is a cultural monument dating back to the 1860s.
Summer House of the Pejačević family in Jarkovci
At the end of the 17th century, the Pejačević family moved from Bulgaria to the territory of what is now Vojvodina (Serbia) and Slavonia (Croatia), both of which were then part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. Thanks to their military merits, they were granted a hereditary Hungarian baronial title in 1712 and a hereditary Hungarian countship in 1772. During the 18th century, members of the family acquired numerous estates in Slavonia and Syrmia, and their wealth and power reached their peak in the 19th century. The last member of the family to live in Ruma until 1875 was Adolf Pejačević (1825–1880). He was the one who built the summer residence in Jarkovci, which is now considered a cultural monument.
It was interesting to read on one of the informational boards here that the entire village was called Moja Volja ("My Will") until the 1980s, when it was renamed to Jarkovci. There are a few stories associated with the original name, but in any case, it was linked to the Pejačević family and "their will," as the village was part of an estate owned by this noble family.
Summer House of the Pejačević family in Jarkovci
The summer residence has a T-shaped ground plan, with the longitudinal part consisting of only the ground floor, while the transverse part has one upper floor. Both roofs are gabled. I decided to take a walk around the building, but I also peeked through the windows on the ground floor in order to see what the interior looked like. I especially liked the part of the building that faces the garden, where, in addition to the arcades on the ground floor, there is also a balcony on the upper floor with a wrought-iron railing.
Summer House of the Pejačević family in Jarkovci
As for the interior, it was empty – at least in the part I could see through a couple of windows. On the other hand, I have read, and also saw, that the building and its surroundings are used for the needs of the local school and kindergarten, as well as for the village administrative office and clinic.
Summer House of the Pejačević family in Jarkovci
In the immediate vicinity of the summer residence, there is also an artificial reservoir – Jarkovačko Lake or Jarkovci reservoir. I approached it by car from the southern side.
Jarkovci reservoir
The reservoir is about 2 km long, around 200 m wide, and has an average depth of about 4.5 m. It was created in 1976 when the local stream was dammed to provide water for irrigating the surrounding fields. There is a trail around the lake that stretches for about 5.5 km and the lake also contains fish, so with a special permit, fishing is allowed and the visitors can enjoy this activity as well.
Jarkovci reservoir, a detail
Although the day was beautiful and I thought it would be nice to walk around the lake, I didn’t have time for that, so I continued on to the village of Mali Radinci, where the Church of St. Nicholas (from 1766) is located. It is categorised as a cultural monument.
Church of St. Nicholas in Mali Radinci
Here I was very happy to find that my phone call with Father Marko, the priest, the day before I set off on my trip, had paid off. The doors of the church were wide open and my first thought was that this is exactly how it should be – the church (or the Church) should always greet visitors with its doors (or arms) wide open.
Church of St. Nicholas in Mali Radinci
Although it was clear that some work was being done on the building (in the lower section of the walls, both outside and inside), this in no way diminished the beauty of the space.
Church of St. Nicholas in Mali Radinci
It is a single-nave building with a narthex to the west, above which rises a tall bell tower, while to the east there is a semi-circular altar apse. There are also shallow choir apses and above the nave, there is a barrel vault.
Church of St. Nicholas in Mali Radinci
However, what is particularly significant is the very beautiful, intricately crafted and richly decorated iconostasis from the second half of the 18th century. The iconostasis is divided into three horizontal zones.
Church of St. Nicholas in Mali Radinci
I was very pleased with this visit and after lighting candles, I returned to the car and continued on my way. The planned route now took me north of Ruma, towards Irig. Right along the road, on both sides, stands a monument to the plague called "Kipovi" (Statues). The monument is categorised as a landmark and it consists of two parts, with one located on one side of the road and the other on the opposite side. I parked my car in a pull-off area by the road, but in order to get a good look at both parts of the monument, I had to cross a fairly busy road with a lot of traffic, so I had to be very careful. Everything went just fine.
In 1795, the plague spread to parts of present-day Serbia, arriving from inner Turkey via Belgrade and Zemun. It reached Irig, which at the time was the largest town in Syrmia. People didn’t know much about the disease back then, they didn’t follow the authorities’ orders, they didn’t believe in hospitals, but they were getting sick and dying nonetheless. During 1795 and 1796, around 70% of Irig’s population fell ill, and by the end, more than half of the population died. To prevent the spread of the plague, trenches were dug around Irig and volunteer guards were stationed along the road to Ruma. When the plague was successfully contained in 1797, the grateful inhabitants of Ruma erected this monument at the site where the guard post had been. The monument consists of two parts.
Monument to plague named “Statues”
Monument to plague named “Statues”
After returning to the side of the road where my car was parked, I got back in and continued along the road that climbs toward the top of Fruška Gora.