Thailand 2023, part 14 (Khao Yai NP, Pak Chong, Nakhon Ratchasima)

During my trip to Thailand, I visited Khao Yai National Park as part of a smaller group of visitors formed the day before by people staying in some of the numerous hotels near the park entrance.

After an interesting walk through the rainforest, we emerged into a clearing and walked along a path gently descending towards a small reservoir.

In the Khao Yai NP

Khao Yai NP

Everything seemed very beautiful and serene, and my only issue was the intense sun heating up my head. However, it’s interesting to come here and walk along the trails, since it leads past an excavated area where there are salt reserves that animals, especially the Asian elephants from the park, come to lick (the site is known as a “salt lick”). I don’t know if there were salt deposits here before, but now the park management replenishes the salt in the soil every year, ensuring regular visits to this place by elephants, as well as sambar deer and other herbivores.

Salt lick in the Khao Yai NP

I found it additionally interesting when I read that this also attracts carnivores in the form of the Asian wild dog that comes here to hunt herbivores. This actually maintains a balance in the herbivore population, but it also naturally strengthens their population as the weak or careless individuals perish.

If anyone ever thought that nature is gentle, they were greatly mistaken. It can only appear that way in some photos. Even here, on a peaceful day without elephants, but also without wild dogs, which, as suggested, prey on the vulnerable, while everything seemed tame and beautiful, passing by the reservoir I could notice a carcass in the water. I assume it didn’t stay there for long and someone in the food chain has likely found the way to recycle it nicely and naturally.

Reservoir near the salt lick in the Khao Yai NP

After descending to the reservoir along the trail, we continued ascending to the next elevation using the same path. Fortunately, there was once again the presence of trees, allowing me to enjoy catching shade whenever possible.

Khao Yai NP

On that second elevation, there was a large lookout or observation tower. It is erected there in order to provide a good view of both the reservoir and the salt lick on the adjacent elevation. Exiting the forest, the trail we had previously traversed was also clearly visible on that neighbouring elevation.

Khao Yai NP

Khao Yai NP

On the other side of the observation tower, the scenes were somewhat different – there was forest in the distance, but primarily it was a large grassy area.

Khao Yai NP

As I read on an information board, for the past 50 years, the park management had been intentionally burning the grass near the tower every summer. The purpose of this controlled burning is to stimulate the growth of new grass, ensuring an ample food supply for herbivores.

However, aside from the beautiful landscapes, we didn’t notice anything particularly exciting around the tower, so at some point, we continued along the broad path. This path actually leads to a parking area next to the main road through the national park, serving visitors who come there, park their cars and then walk in the opposite direction on the same path to the observation tower in hopes of spotting some animals.

Khao Yai NP

Khao Yai NP

Khao Yai NP

The group I was with now moved to the Visitor Centre where there was a restaurant and that was where we had lunch. The food was excellent, including the fruit we received for dessert. However, on this occasion, I would like to emphasise that in Thailand, traditionally, chopsticks are not used as one might expect; instead, a spoon and fork are used, but in a slightly different manner compared to the “Western” way of using these pieced of cutlery.

Lunch in the Khao Yai NP

After lunch, we drove to one of the numerous waterfalls within the national park. This was the Haew Su Wat waterfall, located just about 200 meters from the asphalt road, making it easily accessible and quite popular among visitors.

Haew Su Wat waterfall

Admittedly, one first needs to descend following a concrete path with many steps. Upon reaching the end, at the level of the pond into which the waterfall flows, visitors must then climb over larger rock formations to admire the waterfall from different angles. It wasn’t difficult for me, and even when it was, I told myself to act as if it wasn’t difficult and to endure. I listened to myself, so I am very pleased with the photos.

Haew Su Wat waterfall

Haew Su Wat waterfall

Haew Su Wat waterfall

Haew Su Wat waterfall

Haew Su Wat waterfall

After I had finished taking photos of the waterfall, I retraced my steps back towards the parking lot. However, this time, I had to climb the concrete path with stairs that led through a bamboo forest. Besides being steep, it was hot with high humidity. So, it wasn’t easy, but in the end, I made it.

Near the Haew Su Wat waterfall

Beside the parking lot in this area, there were some tables and benches, as well as a small shop, so we took a short break here for a second snack. The cost of the excursion included snacks and juice from that shop. It wasn’t exactly healthy, but it was enjoyable. While we were sitting there, I noticed an interesting bird nearby – blue whistling-thrush (Myophonus caeruleus).

Blue whistling-thrush

After the break, we set off on a walk near the parking area, but on the other side from the Haew Su Wat waterfall and it was mostly on flat terrain. I saw a sign pointing to another waterfall, but we didn’t make it to that one. From what I later understood, this second one was more like cascades, so we didn’t miss much. Nevertheless, we took a short stroll along the river and its bank.

River in the Khao Yai NP

River in the Khao Yai NP

River in the Khao Yai NP

River in the Khao Yai NP

The river wasn’t deep, but in a few places, walking over rocks protruding from the water, we could cross to the other side.

River in the Khao Yai NP

There, at one point, the guide drew our attention to a snake hiding among the leaves. Since it was a Vogel’s green pit viper (Trimeresurus vogeli), which is venomous, it was wise not to disturb it.

Vogel’s green pit viper

We soon returned to the vehicle and continued exploring the park. At one point, the guide and driver spotted several other visitor vehicles by the road, so we stopped and it turned out that we could see another very unusual snake there – it was so thin that it could barely be discerned against the surrounding twigs. It was the oriental vine/whip snake (Ahaetulla prasina).

Oriental vine/whip snake

Oriental vine/whip snake

After this brief stop, we were told that we would attempt to see elephants, so we continued along the main road, which essentially runs from north to south through the national park.

Road through the Khao Yai NP

Now began the least charming part of the trip. In essence, for the next couple of hours, we drove slowly along this main road, perhaps with the hope that we might accidentally come across elephants who, at that very moment when we were passing through a certain part of the park, would decide to cross the road. Admittedly, we were not alone in this endeavour; a considerable number of excursion vehicles were doing the same thing as us. However, private vehicles and trucks were also travelling along the road. I thought to myself, finding a needle in a haystack would be much easier.

We stopped briefly at one point because we encountered macaques, but they were the only animals we saw during that drive and they promptly ran away from us.

A detail from the Khao Yai NP

In the end, it all seemed rather pointless and I had the impression that, under the pretext of searching for elephants, they were essentially killing time.

And so, we slowly drove in one direction for a couple of dozen of kilometres, then turned around and returned at the same pace from where we had more or less started.

“Looking for elephants” in the Khao Yai NP

On the way back, we also passed the junction leading to that large observation tower I have mentioned earlier, which is situated on an elevation opposite the reservoir and the earthy area where elephants come to eat salt or dust themselves. We stopped there during a time of the day when it was still hot and the elephants were almost certainly still in the forest in the shade. I couldn’t shake off the feeling that visiting that observation tower later in the afternoon, when there was a higher likelihood of elephants appearing, was reserved for “private,” more important or wealthier visitors.

As a kind of “consolation” prize, our vehicle took us to a fenced area that possibly belonged to the military or something similar and there, within that complex, a sambar deer resided. My impression was that it was either tamed, old or sick, and therefore stayed only there, not venturing anywhere, receiving visits from tourists who needed a bit of comfort because they hadn’t seen elephants. Elephants are a significant draw for tourists, so it’s always good to advertise that they are “almost regularly” seen and encountered in a given park.

Lonely deer within a human complex

When we were passing near some low buildings, like log cabins, the guide spotted something running across the meadow, so we stopped there. It turned out to be a pair of porcupine piglets. More precisely, they were specimens of the Malayan porcupine (Hystrix brachyura).

Malayan porcupines

Malayan porcupine

When we returned to the Visitor Centre, we took a restroom break, while I took the opportunity to capture a few shots of the great hornbills (Buceros bicornis). I had a much better view and captured footage of this impressive bird earlier in the day, as seen in the previous part of the story. By this time, the day was coming to an end and there wasn’t enough light.

A detail from the Khao Yai NP

The excursion vehicle dropped me off in front of the same hotel where they had picked me up in the morning and I bid farewell to the other group members. Now, I was a bit concerned as it was already dusk – the sun had set and I had to walk for about 10 minutes. This, of course, is not a problem at all, but every time I passed through here, I encountered various local dogs. They were always quite friendly and I assumed they were already “used to” me, but... it was evening and I was slightly worried.

There was no need to worry. I reached the hotel just fine and then retreated to my room, where I contacted my family and friends.

The plan for the next day involved transferring from the Khao Yai National Park to the town of Pak Chong and then further eastwards to the town of Prakhon Chai. So, after breakfast, I walked with my belongings to the main road and started to wait there.

Backpacks by the road – the vegetation on that side of the road is already the realm of the Khao Yai NP

By this point, I already had a bit of experience, so I knew how to catch a songthaew (a passenger-adapted truck) in order for it to take me to Pak Chong. I knew that then I needed to wait there for a bus or a mini-bus heading east, but I wasn’t sure if there were any that went directly, plus I didn’t know whom to ask. The guidebook I was using wasn’t of much help, but it provided some hints. The distance of the journey was around 200 km, which would take about 3-4 hours by bus if it went directly, but that remained an open question for the time being.

So, I stood there waiting for my truck, but it didn’t arrive for half an hour. Then, a pickup truck pulled over and a visibly serious man asked me where I was going. He then informed me, in quite decent English, that he and his female driver (!!!) would give me a ride. I rarely hitchhike and I had never before gotten into a car with someone who “picked me up,” but after all the type of vehicle suggested this as a solution (a pickup picking me up). Jokes aside, for some reason, I felt completely calm and safe in this situation, so I accepted his offer.

As it turned out, he was a local politician. He told me that he had been a member of the Parliament 20 years before and now he planned to run for office again. He knew exactly where Serbia was and he also mentioned that Djokovic was an excellent tennis player. Aside from taking me exactly where I needed to go and explaining how to proceed further, he asked if we could take a photo together to show people how he helps everyone!!! I asked him to take a photo with my camera as well.

I would propose that the caption for the photo in the election campaign gets a classical tone: TOGETHER FOR A BETTER FUTURE!!!

Along the way, he also mentioned that he had a house in Los Angeles. I keep saying that all politicians are the same everywhere, but there’s no one to listen to me.

In the end, I don’t know what he did in the elections, but I’m certainly grateful to him for taking me where I needed to be. I then boarded a minibus that transported me from Pak Chong to the city of Khorat, which is short for the official name of Nakhon Ratchasima.

I’m about to leave Pak Chong by minibus

Looking at the geographical map, it seemed like I was going a bit up and then a bit down, while it would have been shorter to go directly. However, it was still better that I went to a larger city, taking a relatively round and round route, considering that I had the whole day for the transfer, so I didn’t have to hurry. The alternative would have been to try to go directly, not knowing if it was feasible at all and I was concerned that I might end up getting off at some intermediate station where there was nothing and no one to ask, leaving me completely stranded.

Type of a stop along the way used by minibuses and regular coaches

After all, that’s exactly what the local politician advised me and I didn’t argue at all. I just followed the instructions and it turned out to be a good idea.

So, at the station in the city of Khorat, I transferred to a coach, settled in comfortably and waited for the scheduled departure time. Entertainment was provided by some Thai pop band playing over the speakers and I could watch them on the screen above the driver.

In a coach at the bus terminal in Khorat

The coach left on time, but then it moved at the speed of a snail along less than 15 km from the terminal, but not in one go. First, it stopped at another location within the terminal, then it started again, made another stop and finally arrived at a gas station. OK. A bit unusual, but what can you do.

At a petrol station

Although, I must admit, I thought they could have filled the tank earlier. However, everyone then got off, so I thought I should, too. When in Rome, do as the Romans do. So, we all got off, and that’s when the waiting began. I asked a girl and it turned out she could even explain, saying that the reason for the stop was the refuelling and it would take about 10 minutes. Of course, it took longer than 10 minutes and it proceeded at the speed that seemed as if they were pouring fuel with a syringe. All in all, an hour after leaving the coach terminal, we practically hadn’t even left the city limits!

By the way, this was my first coach ride in Thailand, so I was surprised. Later, I realised that coaches seem to start regularly with an empty tank and then head to the gas station before the journey begins.

Verica Ristic

Born and lives in Serbia. Free-lance interpreter/translator for English, but also speaks other languages (this helps a LOT when travelling). Grateful to the Universe for everything.

Belgrade, Serbia

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