The Phanom Rung temple complex, along with two other sanctuaries, is situated southwest and not far from the town of Prakhon Chai in south-eastern Thailand near the border with Cambodia. These three sanctuaries, belonging to the Khmer culture, were built in the early 2nd millennium CE when this area was a part of the Khmer Empire (802-1431). All three are listed as a cultural heritage site on the UNESCO’s Tentative List of World Heritage.
In the previous sequel, I already began to talk about my visit to the Phanom Rung sanctuary during my stay in Thailand in early 2023. As a reminder, here is a map showing the places I visited during this journey, making it easier to locate this significant site.
As for Phanom Rung itself, after reaching the eastern gopura (monumental doorway) and taking a closer look at it, I proceeded towards the main part of the sanctuary located in the centre of the square courtyard.
Phanom Rung, passage through the eastern gopura
Upon passing through the gopura, you reach yet another platform with Nagas, named similarly to the previous two – the Third Level Naga Bridge. It is located in front of the entrance to the central temple. This cruciform platform, like the previous two, is decorated with five-headed serpents, Nagas. However, at this point, I had already lost some interest in them and didn’t specifically photograph them. I found it much more intriguing to pay attention to the temple and its impressive facade.
Phanom Rung, the bridge/platform with Nagas is in the foreground, followed by the main temple
Since Phanom Rung was built for the worship of Shiva, one of the three supreme deities in Hinduism, a remarkably beautiful pediment depicts Shiva Nataraja or Dancing Shiva. According to the belief, the dancing Shiva represents both creation and destruction. In this image, he dances on the sacred Mount Kailasa depicted with ten arms. Other deities surround him, such as Ganesha, Brahma and Vishnu. Additionally, there are two female figures – one is a royal consort and the other is a royal disciple.
Phanom Rung, the east pediment of the main temple
Below the pediment, an equally impressive lintel depicts Reclining Vishnu. Vishnu lies on the Naga king, who, in turn, rests on a dragon. From Vishnu’s navel emerges a lotus, on top of which sits Brahma. At Vishnu’s feet, there is his royal consort, Lakshmi. Two parrots are clearly visible on the right-hand side of the lintel.
Phanom Rung, the east lintel of the main temple
Now, I took a look around the courtyard and on the northern side of the walled courtyard, you can see the remains of ruined prangs from the 10th century. I have mentioned earlier that prang is the term used for a typically richly decorated tower, characteristic of Khmer architecture. However, I decided to visit that area later, so I headed towards the southern part of the courtyard first.
Phanom Rung, north side of the courtyard
The Phanom Rung sanctuary is constructed using pink sandstone and this is quite evident when you look at the central temple from the side illuminated by bright sunlight.
Phanom Rung, the main temple
The main temple, built in the 12th century, consists of a cruciform structure with a central shrine housing the Shiva Lingam, above which rises the main tower. This central shrine is called the garbhagriha. It is approached from the eastern side, where the main entrance is located, through an antechamber known as mandapa in Hindu architecture. On the facade of the mandapa is the Dancing Shiva. The mandapa and the garbhagriha are connected by an antarala, a smaller chamber that joins these two main parts into a unified whole and also has side entrances with decorative pediments. This arrangement can be seen more clearly in the following photograph, where from left to right, there is the central shrine with the main tower (the garbhagriha), followed by the antarala and then comes the mandapa. Far right is the part of the eastern gopura through which I entered. Between the eastern gopura and the mandapa is the Third Level Naga Bridge.
Phanom Rung, the main temple
Just like the facade of the mandapa on the eastern side, each of the remaining three entrances leading into the central shrine with the lingam is also richly decorated. On the southern side, there is a stone guardian and there are also five-headed Nagas. I won’t go into too many other details.
Phanom Rung, main temple, the south side, a detail
The southern side of the antarala and mandapa is also richly decorated.
Phanom Rung, main temple, the south side, a detail
Southeast of the main temple, there is also a freestanding structure, which used to be one of the two libraries within the temple complex from the 13th century. Today, there is nothing inside to see, but just as I peeked inside when I passed by, some young monks entered and, shortly after, they came out.
Phanom Rung, one of the libraries
Opposite this library, southwest of the main temple, there is Prang Noi or the minor sanctuary. Its position in relation to the main temple is clearly visible in the following photo.
Phanom Rung, Prang Noi is to the left, while the main temple is in the background
Prang Noi was constructed in the 11th century and it can be entered only from the eastern side.
Phanom Rung, Prang Noi
I entered here as well and here is what can be seen inside today.
Phanom Rung, Prang Noi
Although this temple complex is not large, there are plenty of interesting details to see. Among other things, there is a nicely constructed enclosure wall that surrounds the square courtyard containing these various structures.
Phanom Rung, enclosure wall
In the north-eastern part of the courtyard there is another library from the 13th century where religious documents were preserved. Here, I not only took a peek, but also took a photo of what the interior of the building looks like today.
Phanom Rung, the interior of one of the libraries
However, the most abundant details can be observed on the main temple itself, covering all its components.
Phanom Rung, west side of the central shrine
Phanom Rung, north side of the central shrine, detail
Phanom Rung, lintel on the north side of the antarala
Phanom Rung, pediment on the north side of the antarala
Phanom Rung, pediment on the north side of the mandapa
Phanom Rung, north side of the main temple
By this point, I completed a full circle and returned to the eastern side. I wanted to go back to the south side again to enter the temple from there.
Phanom Rung, east side of the main temple
Phanom Rung, pediment on the south side of the mandapa
In the photo above, you can see Nandi the bull on the pediment, which is fitting because inside, in the mandapa, there is a figure of Nandi or Nandin, the mythical creature that serves as the mount of the god Shiva to whom the entire temple is dedicated.
Phanom Rung, Nandi
Nandi not only serves as the mount of Lord Shiva, but also acts as his guardian and the guardian of Mount Kailasa or Kailash, where Shiva resides. That’s why in almost all temples dedicated to Shiva, the Nandi sculpture is positioned facing the central shrine where the lingam, a symbol of Lord Shiva, is placed. In the next photo, the lingam is not visible because some monks were passing by, but the general arrangement can be seen.
Phanom Rung, Nandi
The entrance to the central part of the temple is guarded by five yogis, as seen on the lintel in the antarala. In the centre of the garbhagriha there is the lingam, symbolically representing Lord Shiva.
Phanom Rung, lintel in the antarala
Phanom Rung, Shiva’s lingam in the centre of garbhagriha
The symbolism and the location of the temple complex on the top of the only elevation in the area, as well as its orientation concerning the cardinal points and the movement of the sun, are very impressive. On the one hand, the temple metaphorically represents Kailasa/Kailash Mountain, where Shiva resides. On the other hand, on specific days of the year (four times a year, each time over a few days), the sun’s rays passing through the 15 doorways reach the lingams from either the east or the west, stimulating and renewing the life force of the lingam. This, in turn, contributes to the well-being of the entire region and its inhabitants.
After this, I walked to the outer side of the western part of the enclosure wall. While I was exploring there, a few monks appeared and we established they wanted to take photos with me and I with them. So, we did.
With Buddhist monks at Phanom Rung
Buddhist monks visiting Phanom Rung
From here, you can descend for a while down the western slope of the hill, but I was only taking photographs. It was interesting to see the expansive plain in the distance surrounding this elevation with the temple on its summit.
West side of the hill with the Phanom Rung Historical Park
A little farther, on the slope south of the temple complex, some kind of ritual was taking place. I don’t know exactly what this was about, but it was certainly interesting for me to see it and take a photo of it.
A ritual beside Phanom Rung
I also took photos of the temple complex from the south side, as well as of several picturesque details.
South side of Phanom Rung
Phanom Rung, a detail
Phanom Rung, a detail
The same way I came, that is, along the Royal Avenue, I started to go back now. In the next picture, you can see the platform where the Royal Avenue ends and from where the visitors descend towards the parking lot.
Phanom Rung, a detail
As it can be seen in the photo, besides Buddhist monks in orange kasayas, which is the term for monk’s robes, from the very beginning, I encountered on the site groups of primary school children brought here for a visit, which meant a lot of running around and a lot of noise. Initially, it bothered me a bit, but I got used to it and I had no problem exploring the site.
I still have to visit the building I noticed upon arrival, which is a pavilion from the 12th century called Phlab Phla. It is believed to be the place where kings bathed and changed during their visits to the temple. Here, I just walked around the remains of the building.
Phanom Rung, royal pavilion
Phanom Rung, royal pavilion Phlab Phla
Phanom Rung, royal pavilion Phlab Phla, a detail
Phanom Rung, royal pavilion Phlab Phla, the south side
By the way, I was in Phanom Rung in the second half of February. This meant there wasn’t much rain, but there was plenty of sun and high temperatures. For me, 36 degrees is a normal summer temperature, but when I’m at home and the temperature is this high, I’m usually in the shade and indoors. However, here I was exploring, so I have to admit it wasn’t easy for me. But, I’m not complaining – there were many beautiful scenes, even some small but no less interesting details related to the local vegetation.
Phanom Rung, a detail
Having returned to the parking lot, I met again with Eme and her descendants and then she drove me to another site in the area that is a part of the ensemble inscribed on the UNESCO’s Tentative World Heritage List. This site was Muang Tam.
This ensemble also includes two smaller shrines called Plai Bat No. 1 and No. 2, so my initial plan was to visit them as well. However, the hotel staff seemed a bit surprised when I mentioned this because, as they told me, few people engage with these archaeological remains. I even inquired at the information desk at Phanom Rung and I did some reading, concluding that it was too complicated and especially uncertain since I didn’t know what I might actually see. I would have to climb (and I didn’t have suitable footwear) and there was a real possibility of getting lost. From what I could gather in one of my guides, there was supposed to be a trail from a monastery leading up a small hill, with no signage. So, it never crossed my mind to go there. I am entirely satisfied with having visited Muang Tam alone.
So, although this is another important site, Muang Tam is much less popular than Phanom Rung and I was mostly alone during my visit here. The name Muang Tam is not the original name of the sanctuary; it simply means “lower city,” reflecting the fact that it is situated on the plain, not on a hill. The full name of the site is Prasat Muang Tam. In Khmer and Thai, “prasat” means “castle,” “palace” or “temple,” and this term is often found on maps and guides alongside Phanom Rung. However, I got the impression that it is more commonly used for this second temple in the lowland.
To approach the main temple, after purchasing a ticket, you first pass through a surrounding park. This park is interesting because it features replicas of stone parts of antique structures, as well as intriguing vegetation.
Muang Tam, the park around the main temple
Muang Tam, replica of a pediment from the 11th century
Muang Tam, unusual tree trunks in the park
And then you approach the eastern entrance of the main temple.
Muang Tam