The day intended for a “simple” transfer by buses from one place, Prakhon Chai, via the second, Surin, to the third, Ubon Ratchathani, turned out to be anything but lacking in adventurous aspects, as one might think. Admittedly, I would have been much happier, if it had been a dull day, but apparently, that wasn’t in the cards for me.
Here is a map showing the places I visited during my trip to Thailand in February and March 2023, so you can find the cities I’m mentioning now.
By looking at the map, one might easily conclude that Prakhon Chai and Ubon Ratchathani could be well-connected and regularly serviced, considering they are linked by a very important travel route, presumably a highway, numbered 24. However, that is not the case at all. It seems there is only one direct bus connection and it departs in the afternoon, which didn’t suit my schedule. I realised I would have to combine buses and go through the town of Surin.
The day before, Eme, who had been my taxi driver during the visit to Phanom Rung, stopped by the station to inquire about my onward journey. The ticket seller at the station mentioned that there is a bus to Surin at 11 in the morning. That was it.
This seemed a bit odd to me, but well, when they say so, what can you do. However, at the reception of a very good hotel, they told me that there are buses to Surin every hour (for example, starting from 8:30...) and this sounded more realistic and convincing to me (!!!). Not only because of the wishful thinking principle, but also because one of the girls working at the reception was originally from Ubon Ratchathani, so she “knew,” although she did say it was quite complicated. As she told me, there are buses from Surin to Ubon every hour and a half. This also made sense to me, even though my guidebook insisted that these two cities are connected by regular bus lines with departures every hour.
As it happened, I woke up early and at some point realised that it didn’t make much sense to linger around the hotel. So, I packed up and set out. Once again, I saw the girl from Ubon at the reception who, with a constant smile and folded hands, thanked me for everything and confirmed that there were indeed buses, as I had been told. Miraculously, I was already at the station before 8:30, hopeful that I would depart soon.
Very soon, they informed me again that the bus was only leaving at 11 o’clock. I still thought they had no idea, but in the end, all I could do was practice patience and wait for two and a half hours!!! So, out of boredom, I took pictures of the station and spotted a pretty red collared-dove (Streptopelia tranquebarica).
Surroundings of the coach terminal in Prakhon Chai
Red collared-dove
Several buses coming from Surin passed through the terminal, but none of them was heading to the town. However, at one point, something quite charming happened. One of the buses that came from Surin and was going to Khorat was literally the same one I had taken a few days earlier and the driver was the same, too. It was the driver who had extinguished the fire, cooled the engine, repaired the bus, delivered mail, collected tickets, dealt with luggage... In short, we had parted ways a few days earlier with smiles and gratitude, so when I saw him again at the station, I felt it was only realistic and polite to say hello. The next step was to take a selfie with him.
Taking selfies with drivers at coach terminals around Thailand
The rest of the time spent at the station in Prakhon Chai was uneventful and a little after 11 o’clock, the coach I was waiting for actually arrived, taking me to Surin. Along the way, while the coach was waiting at a traffic light, I managed to capture the Thai version of Hell’s Angels.
Coach and a scene from the street on the way to Surin
While waiting in Prakhon Chai, I read my guidebooks and planned extensively how to organise my afternoon in Ubon. Now that I’ve arrived in Surin, I immediately inquired about the bus to Ubon, fearing that my potential slowness might cause me to miss a bus that was about to depart. They directed me to a counter where the man sitting there showed me the schedule on the board, indicating that the next bus would leave at 3:30 PM, which was in THREE HOURS!!! I was almost floored by the unpleasant surprise.
The problem wasn’t just the late departure; it was also the late arrival in Ubon, as I would arrive when it was already getting dark. Furthermore, the coach station in Surin was not a place where I wanted to spend three hours with my two backpacks. By the way, to clarify – I had only one large backpack, but also a small one that, due to water and snacks, as well as a laptop, could be almost as heavy as the large one.
I tried to inquire further by asking a woman if there were minibuses or any other transportation options. No. There was nothing else except for this bus at 3:30 PM.
Fortunately, as the coach I was on was entering the station, I noticed that right next to it there was the local “Majestic” hotel. I thought it would be better for me to go to the hotel. On the one hand, it would be more comfortable to wait there for three hours and, on the other hand, I thought I could gather more information there. So, I shouldered my two backpacks and walked those hundred metres or so, although it felt like my brain would boil from the intense sun.
At the reception, I found a young girl who claimed to speak a little English, but it turned out she had no clue. Nevertheless, she had a phone with a translator, so we communicated that way.
By the way, in one of my guidebooks, I came across information that there is a railway connection between Surin and Ubon, but I had no idea where the station was, whether trains really operated and when. This girl told me that there are trains and she even found that there was a train at 2:10 PM. Not only that, but the hotel porter also arranged a tuk-tuk for me. I felt a bit sorry that I didn’t stay in that hotel with such friendly staff.
Area in front of the Majestic hotel in Surin
In the tuk-tuk on the way from the hotel to the railway station in Surin
On the other hand, I also considered that if it turned out the information was incorrect and there was no train at a reasonable time, I could always go back to the coach station.
As it turned out, there was indeed a train, at 2:03 PM (!!! – and it was precisely on time), it took less than three hours (while the bus takes more than three hours), and the ticket cost less than the coffee I had in the station’s café. What was exceptionally good was that I would reach Ubon while it was still broad daylight. So, the solution was perfect!!!
However, before the train arrived, I had to kill some time. It wasn’t a big problem since I sat in that café, had coffee and then took some photos of the surroundings of the station.
Surroundings of the train station in Surin
Still, I was a bit bored, so I started taking photos of various items offered in the shop that was a part of the café. Snacks, in particular, caught my interest. I didn’t buy any because I prefer plain salted chips, but that didn’t diminish the fascination with the various flavours available here.
Crispy pork
Seaweed-flavoured crisps
Seafood-flavoured crisps
While waiting for the train, I realised it wouldn’t be a bad idea to use the toilet. It was especially convenient at this location because I could ask the girl working in the café to keep an eye on my backpacks while I quickly went “to do my thing” in my lightweight version. Fortunately, I had my mobile phone with me, so I could take a photo of the toilet.
Toilet at the train station in Surin
Of course, I’ve seen squat toilets in my life, but not quite like this – elevated, as if the user is on a throne of its kind. On the other hand, this was the first time I saw such a toilet, but later on I regularly encountered them throughout Thailand. It’s additionally interesting that the water is “flushed” by scooping water from a container with a plastic bowl that floats there. However, there are sinks and soap in front, so, in the end, everything was in order.
The train journey itself was exceptionally pleasant. To start with, there was enough space for me to put up my legs, making the trip much more enjoyable, as the seats in the third class are not inherently comfortable.
Train from Surin from Ubon
Moreover, the train runs through rural landscapes, so the view was incomparably more beautiful than if I were on a coach, where I would mainly see other vehicles through dirty windows. In the train, the windows are mostly lowered, which means there are natural ventilation and a beautiful view unspoiled by dirty windows.
I was content and could relax, observe the surroundings and capture them with my camera.
Landscape along the train track from Surin to Ubon
Detail from the surroundings of the train track from Surin to Ubon
At one point, I saw two interesting creatures – one was a water buffalo (Bubalus bubalis) and the other was a great myna or white-vented myna (Acridotheres grandis), which, by the way, is not particularly large despite its name.
Water buffalo and great myna
I found even the details visible while the train was in one of the intermediate stations interesting. I particularly liked that Thais have signs at railway stations displaying the names of the stations before and after the current one. It’s a helpful notice that gives passengers the opportunity to prepare and disembark at their intended destination.
Detail from the surroundings of the train track from Surin to Ubon
Detail from the surroundings of the train track from Surin to Ubon
Great board with important information
And so, I arrived in Ubon Ratchathani while it was still broad daylight.
I knew the train station was quite far from my hotel, so I didn’t hesitate at all – I approached the first taxi. When I mentioned the hotel’s name, the driver immediately confirmed and everything indicated that he knew exactly where to go. And I believe he did know, but on the first turn, he went in the wrong direction. I thought it might be a one-way street or something, so I continued to track the movement using Google Maps. I must admit that, as a somewhat conservative person, this is one of the most ingenious inventions for me. I really like to know where I am, so maps are essential to me, and it’s also extremely useful to track real-time movement in a city where you objectively have no idea where things are and taxi drivers can take you for a ride (!). That was the case with this taxi driver. Immediately after the first “wrong” turn, there was a second one and it literally went in the opposite direction from where my hotel was. I reacted immediately, showed him my phone and the map, and told him to take me back to the station. He didn’t protest much but asked me to pay the initial amount. I didn’t want to argue; after all, he was on his home turf and it wasn’t a significant amount. I switched to another taxi and he drove perfectly, even asking me at one intersection whether I wanted to turn or go straight. Both options made sense on the digital map, but I told him which route I preferred. It was very nice and considerate of him.
Still, one shouldn’t get the impression that Thai taxi drivers are bad and dishonest. I’ve had experiences of being taken for a ride even in Vienna and based on the experience of a foreign friend in Belgrade, I know that taxi drivers in my own city, to my dismay, sometimes try to rip off foreigners. Very, very ugly behaviour!
Regardless, I arrived at the hotel and settled in nicely. What bothered me a bit about hotels in Thailand, at least judging by most of the ones I stayed in, which were impeccably clean, new, modern and with smiling staff, was that they didn’t really offer anything else. Typically, they only provided accommodation. This is quite inconvenient when you arrive at such a hotel after a whole day of unplanned and stressful wandering. But okay, for starters, I left my things in the room, changed and then went outside to visit an important temple near the hotel. It was still daytime, albeit the end of the day, so there was some daylight. On the other hand, I was very pleased because the effects later, during dusk, were impressive.
This was Wat Phra That Nong Bua Temple, located about 3 km north of the centre and a little less than 1 km from the hotel where I was staying, which turned out to be a nice walk for me. However, as the day was slowly coming to an end, I had to hurry, so I reached the temple while there was still some daylight. The impression was – spectacular!
Wat Phra That Nong Bua
Wat Phra That Nong Bua
Wat Phra That Nong Bua
Wat Phra That Nong Bua
It is interesting that this chedi, standing at 55 meters, was erected about ten years after the original chedi, which is smaller and now located within this larger one. Another interesting fact is that the base of the chedi is square, making the structure a truncated pyramid. The reason for this is undoubtedly the fact that the shape of this chedi mimics the stupa in Bodhgaya, the place where Buddha attained enlightenment. The first, smaller chedi, visible when you enter this larger one, was built in 1956 to mark 2,500 years of Buddhism.
As with other temples in Thailand, visitors here are also required to take off their shoes, but in this case, it needs to be done even before stepping onto the platform on which the chedi stands.
Wat Phra That Nong Bua
I first entered inside and then I didn’t know where to look first. However, I managed to compose myself, so I first took photos of the smaller chedi surrounded by Buddha figures placed on all four sides of the chedi and then I did the same from a different angle.
Wat Phra That Nong Bua, the interior
Wat Phra That Nong Bua, the interior
I also came across a couple of women praying here and that inspired me to capture the scene in a video format.
Then I went outside, but decided to switch back to video mode on my mobile phone to capture the surroundings and the feeling when entering the temple.
After this, I started to circle around the chedi, taking photos of different details.
Wat Phra That Nong Bua
Wat Phra That Nong Bua, a detail
Wat Phra That Nong Bua, a detail
Wat Phra That Nong Bua, a detail
Meanwhile, the sun had set and the moon was already high in the sky. By the time I finished exploring, it was almost completely dark.
Wat Phra That Nong Bua
Wat Phra That Nong Bua
Wat Phra That Nong Bua
Besides the darkness that was starting to prevail, local crickets also began to make their presence known in incredible numbers, creating a symphony of noise. The impression was fascinating.
Upon returning to the hotel, I took advantage of the owner’s offer to order food for me. To keep it simple, I ordered something I was quite familiar with – fried rice with chicken. And beer! The owner told me that the food would arrive in about 20 minutes.
In the meantime, I booked a car with a driver for the next day through the hotel reception. The main reason for my visit to Ubon Ratchathani was the desired visit to Pha Taem National Park. Compared to other prices, this was a relatively expensive indulgence, but it made sense to me, so I didn’t think much about it.
I waited for the food for about 40 minutes, so I was quite hungry, but it was good that I could eat it in my room, so in the end, I was happy.
After I had returned home, I made my own version of the dish, khao pad, i.e., Thai-style fried rice.
Khao pad served in a bowl I have also made
KHAO PAD
- 1 cup of jasmine rice
- 200 g chicken breasts cut into small cubes
- 1 large clove of garlic
- 1 tsp of grated ginger
- 1/2 red chilli (or less if you don’t like it hot)
- 1 spring onion
- 1 tbsp of light soy sauce
- 1 tbsp of fish sauce
- 1 egg
Boil the rice in slightly salted water a day earlier. The scale is 1 cup of rice per 1 1/2 cups of water. In the end, the rice should be dry and placed in the fridge overnight.
Season the chicken cubes with salt and pepper, sprinkle a teaspoon of cornstarch, mix it all well and let it rest for some 15 minutes. Then fry the chicken in wok at high heat and after a couple of minutes take it out and leave on the side. If necessary add some more oil to the wok.
At medium heat, fry garlic, ginger, hot pepper and cut pieces of spring onion. Fry it just for a very short while and then add the rice, as well as the soy sauce and fish sauce. Then mix it all well, making sure there are no lumps of rice.
Make a hole in the middle of the rice, add some more oil and fry the egg, as if making scrambled eggs, but the egg should not be over-fried. Bring it all together by adding the chicken. Mix well, decorate and serve.