While doing my sightseeing through the Sukhothai Historical Park by riding a bike, I left the Central Zone and entered the Northern Zone. My plan was to visit two significant temples, but along the way, I stopped to see a couple of structures considered less prominent, but conveniently on my route. These were the ceramics kilns, embedded in the ground.
Sukhothai, ceramics kiln
I have already mentioned earlier that the first Siamese kingdom, Sukhothai (1238-1351), was highly developed and powerful in its time. Even when it later became a tributary state with obligations to the second Siamese kingdom, Ayutthaya (1351-1767), the kingdom of Sukhothai did not cease its development. This continued both when the capital moved to Song Khwae and when Ayutthaya annexed the previous Siamese kingdom.
Within the territory of the kingdom of Sukhothai, during both its independence and later, when these territories became a part of the kingdom of Ayutthaya, the economy, trade, engineering, construction, arts and various crafts flourished. Ceramic production, in particular, thrived. That’s precisely why these kilns, dating back to the 14th and early 15th centuries, were necessary.
Sukhothai, ceramics kiln
Now, I proceeded along the asphalt road towards the temple called Wat Si Chum. Since there was no one around, I felt encouraged to capture videos once again. It was a lot of fun!
On the other hand, it was already past noon, the sun was very intense and I was getting more and more tired and exhausted – both due to the high temperature and humidity, and the considerable physical activity of cycling and exploring, compounded by the subpar condition of the bicycle. Soon, I reached a point where the road went “uphill,” meaning there was perhaps just a one-meter elevation difference over a length of about 50 meters. With the bike in its state and my own condition, I barely managed to conquer this and I was close to dismounting and pushing the bike “uphill.”
However, I survived the ride and soon reached the ticket booth, then entered the temple compound.
As for Wat Si Chum, it is a 13th-century temple primarily known for its mondop with an enormous Buddha statue. The statue becomes partially visible as visitors approach the structure. The impression is truly remarkable!
Wat Si Chum
Wat Si Chum, a detail
In front of the mondop, there is a vihara of which only the base and columns remain. However, I think visitors here typically just pass by the vihara and head straight to the mondop.
The mondop, the roof of which has collapsed a long time ago, is a structure with a square base. On the eastern side, it has a narrow opening that tapers towards the top, allowing the Buddha to be seen. Additionally, this is the entrance into the mondop space.
Wat Si Chum, a detail
The entire interior of the structure is occupied by the largest Buddha statue in Sukhothai. The statue stands at a height of 15 meters and is 11 meters wide.
Phra Achana
This particular Buddha statue is named Phra Achana, which means “He who is not frightened.” It is made of brick and has an exterior plaster finish using the stucco technique. What can be seen today is the result of the restoration work carried out in the 1950s.
Phra Achana, a detail
By the way, the Buddha is seated here in a pose that is very important and popular in Buddhism and it is also known by several names – Maravijaya, Bhumisparsha, Subduing Mara or Calling on the Earth [goddess]. I’ve explained the story behind this posture or mudra in https://www.svudapodji.com/en/thailand-20/, but just to mention briefly here that this is always a seated Buddha with crossed legs in a meditation posture, while the right hand is resting over the knee, with the fingers pointing towards the ground.
In the case of Phra Achana, the right hand is also covered with gold leaf brought by devotees as a sign of respect for the Buddha.
Phra Achana
After taking photos of various details, I exited the mondop and took a short walk around the remnants of the temple complex.
Wat Si Chum
Here, there is also a large mango tree. According to the information board, the tree is 200 years old, has a circumference of 6 meters and is 20 meters tall.
Wat Si Chum, mango tree
North of the mondop, there are the remains of a few smaller structures, including a smaller vihara with a seated Buddha figure.
Wat Si Chum, a detail
Wat Si Chum, a detail
I circled around the mondop and, along the way, I finally had the chance to capture something entirely mundane, but no less interesting – repurposed old tires turned into trash bins. Not everything has to be a result of high technology.
Instead of disposal and recycling, reuse and repurposing
Now I returned to the spacious plaza/parking area where various small shops are located. I sat there to have a refreshing drink, finally finding good shade under an umbrella set up beneath a tree. Occasionally, there was even a brief breeze, making this break quite enjoyable. Once I felt adequately rested, I got back on the bike and rode around 800 metres in order to reach another important temple in the Northern Zone of the Sukhothai Historical Park – Wat Phra Phai Luang.
Wat Phra Phai Luang
Wat Phra Phai Luang
This temple dates back to the late 12th and early 13th centuries. Therefore, it was built before the establishment of Sukhothai kingdom, making it one of the oldest within the park.
It is situated in the centre of an area approximately 540 x 500 meters, surrounded by a moat about 40 meters wide. Growing more fatigued, I didn’t bother about the moat, but approached the temple from the wide asphalt road on the western side, parked my bike and began the sightseeing.
Wat Phra Phai Luang is, in fact, a group of ancient monuments encompassing structures built in different periods.
The oldest part used to consist of three intricately decorated spire towers called prasat, crafted in the typical Khmer style. This feature precisely indicates the temple’s age and some believe that this area was the city centre when Sukhothai was just one of the Khmer Empire settlements.
Accordingly, the temple was initially dedicated to Hindu god Vishnu. However, as Theravada Buddhism later prevailed in Sukhothai kingdom, the temple underwent alterations. On the other hand, during the Ayutthaya kingdom era, the temple was expanded, showcasing a blend of influences and styles.
To this day, only the northern prasat has survived, decorated with rich stucco decorations.
Wat Phra Phai Luang, a detail
Wat Phra Phai Luang, north prasat
Wat Phra Phai Luang, north prasat, a detail
East of the prasat, there is the main vihara. Today, on the massive platform, one can observe the remnants of columns with holes at various heights where beams were once fixed.
Wat Phra Phai Luang, vihara
It is also possible to see remains of small chedis around the vihara, within the wall that surrounded this part of the temple complex.
Wat Phra Phai Luang, vihara, a detail
On the other hand, there are remains of chedis outside the area of the main vihara as well.
Wat Phra Phai Luang, a detail
Wat Phra Phai Luang, wall enclosing the space with the vihara and the north prasat
Here I arrived at the next significant structure within the temple complex, which is a stepped pyramidal chedi or, more precisely, its remains. However, what is particularly interesting is the numerous Buddha figures placed either in niches or on the steps of the pyramidal chedi. Everything is in the form of remnants, but that certainly does not diminish the impressiveness of the structure and the overall impact.
Wat Phra Phai Luang, pyramidal chedi
Wat Phra Phai Luang, pyramidal chedi, a detail
Wat Phra Phai Luang, pyramidal chedi, a detail
It is believed that this chedi was erected in the early 14th century, but underwent additions in various periods in order to replace old sections.
Wat Phra Phai Luang, pyramidal chedi
The final structure to the east is the mondop, likely dating back to around the 15th century, featuring four figures of a standing, walking, seated and reclining Buddha.
Wat Phra Phai Luang, mondop
Although today the standing and walking Buddha can still be partially seen, the other two figures have mostly disappeared. Nevertheless, I found this to be quite interesting because it showcases how various figures in these temples were created using the stucco technique. Essentially, bricks form the basic shape, serving as a foundation, and then plaster is applied, which skilled craftsmen and artists shape into the desired figure.
Wat Phra Phai Luang, mondop, a detail
Wat Phra Phai Luang, mondop, a detail
Further east, remains of a few more structures can be seen. Additionally, you reach a nearby bridge that leads over the moat toward one of the entrances where there is a ticket kiosk. I didn’t need this since my bicycle waited for me on the western side, so I simply captured the entire site and three main structures once more before heading back to where my transportation awaited.
Wat Phra Phai Luang
The path also took me past the remains of the ubosot. How did I know it was an ubosot? Very easily – you can see that the rectangular structure is surrounded by sema stones, which were placed on the four cardinal points and the points in between them to mark the sacred space. Usually, the ubosot was located there. The ninth sema stone is traditionally buried beneath the place where the main Buddha figure is positioned inside the ubosot.
Wat Phra Phai Luang, ubosot
At this ubosot, two Buddha figures can be seen on the pedestal, both depicted in the Calling on the Earth [goddess] pose, that I mentioned and explained earlier.
Wat Phra Phai Luang, ubosot, a detail
And now, I finally sat back on the bicycle and headed towards the next temple I wanted to visit. But, it was easier said than done.
To start with, I returned to the main road to head west, as I wanted to visit a temple in the Western zone. Later, I looked at the map and saw that there were shortcuts, but I always follow the advice my boss gave me a long time ago when we were driving to the field – “The shortest way is the one you know.” This definitely wasn’t the shortest route, but I knew it and it was easy to navigate.
The distance of over 5 km didn’t seem that large, but I had several issues – it was early afternoon, the temperature and humidity were high, I was getting more tired and exhausted, and the bicycle... Well, it wasn’t my wonderful bicycle I have at home, equipped with different speeds and easy to ride. Oh no! This seemingly simple and ordinary bicycle was, in fact, a worn-out old bike that probably should have gone to the scrap and it was becoming increasingly difficult for me to turn the pedals, requiring a lot of effort. Perhaps it was just a combination of all these factors, but I was struggling. An additional problem was that on the map, everything seemed much closer and I felt like I couldn’t cover that distance at all.
That’s why, after about 4 kilometres, I took a break at a roadside restaurant where I sat down to rest and have something refreshing. It was a relief. I also sent a few photos to friends and family that I had taken until then.
After that break I was, let’s say, ready to continue, so I finally reached my intended destination, which was the Wat Saphan Hin temple. However, it wasn’t easy there either. The temple is located at the top of a hill about 200 meters high and this required walking for about 300 meters uphill in the sun. I obviously REALLY love sightseeing, but sometimes I wonder if I’m quite normal.
Wat Saphan Hin, foot of the elevation
Wat Saphan Hin
The Wat Saphan Hin temple is accessed by a path made of slate stones, which does make the ascent a bit easier.
Stone path leading to the Wat Saphan Hin temple
Still, I had to take a few breaks to catch my breath and I also made sure to pause in places with some shade from trees with sparse foliage. From one such spot, I captured an image of a chedi erected on the opposite side of the clearing leading to the temple. It features a finial in the shape of a lotus bud, highlighting one of the characteristics of Sukhothai art.
Surroundings of the Wat Saphan Hin temple
Although it was challenging for me to climb, I noticed an older couple ahead of me who were successfully making their way to the top. I thought they might be active hikers, which was only my feeble attempt to console myself. On the other hand, four young people on small motorcycles were behind me. They started after me and two girls from the group opened umbrellas in order to make it easier for them due to the shade they provided. However, it was still challenging for them and being more than half my age did not seem to help. One of the young men in the group, perhaps trying to appear a knight in shining armour, went down to the motorcycles and then tried to climb uphill by one, presumably with the idea of picking up one of the girls and driving her up to the top. He failed, returned the motorcycle and, in the end, all four of them walked to the top.
As for me, when I reached the top, I first sat on a low wall to catch my breath before exploring the surroundings. I began by taking photo of the view of the central part of the Sukhothai Historical Park.
View from the plateau in front of the Wat Saphan Hin temple
The Wat Saphan Hin temple dates back to the 13th century and is renowned for its large standing Buddha statue, which is a part of the remnants of the former vihara still present at the site. The Buddha statue stands at a height of 12.5 meters and its right hand is raised in a gesture known as Abhaya mudra, symbolising the dispelling of fear.
Wat Saphan Hin
In front of the standing Buddha, there is also a considerably smaller seated Buddha figure in the “Calling on the Earth [goddess]” posture.
Wat Saphan Hin, a detail
After capturing all of this, I descended downhill, which was much easier, but I still had to be careful and watch where I placed my feet because the path wasn’t perfectly smooth. In any case, I successfully reached my bicycle and headed back to the Central zone of the historical park.
However, I couldn’t cover even 3 km in one go – it was too difficult and hot for me. So, somewhere halfway, I took another break to cool down and have something refreshing to drink. Another problem was that I couldn’t easily consume a lot of fluids, but that was a perfect excuse to stop, sit somewhere in the shade until my body returned to normal.
My friends had already told me how good I looked in the pictures I had sent them earlier, but those were taken when I was in good state, with my face having its normal colour. Here, I took a picture all flushed and sweaty, so I sent it to them to show that not everything is smooth sailing on my journey.