Uganda 2024, part 2 (Masindi, Mukerenge, Merchison Falls NP)

In the previous part of the story about my trip to Uganda in the summer of 2024, I mentioned several types of fruit, some of which were familiar to me and some were not, and which I had the opportunity to eat during my stay in this wonderful African country.

I really love fruit, so I definitely took the opportunity to visit the market in the town of Masindi in the western part of central Uganda a few times. Our hosts regularly brought us fruit, but I also wanted to see it myself at the market and maybe buy some if I wanted to try it or eat it a little more frequently. I didn't have to worry about bananas; they were always available. They are such a nice and tasty fruit, and I especially love them when they ripen naturally in the area where they grow.

Bananas at the farmers’ market in Masindi

Since I love farmers’ markets, every visit to the one in Masindi was a real experience for me, whether I went there when it was dry or after a heavy rain.

Farmers’ market in Masindi

On one occasion, I noticed a vendor in front of the market who was carefully pouring his product, milk, into bags. I was fascinated by how skilfully he did it, while he also suggested that we take a picture together. I never miss out on such opportunities.

With a milk vendor (Photo by: MJ)

In addition to the fruit that particularly interested me at the market, once I paid more attention to the very small dried fish that was also being sold there.

Tiny fish at the farmers’ market in Masindi

Later, I asked Susan, a wonderful representative of our hosts whom I also consider a friend, about it and she explained that it was the "moon fish" because it is caught using light on nights without moonlight. I later discovered that it is formally called silver fish or silver cyprinid (Rastrineobola argentea) and it belongs to the carp family. It is also known as Lake Victoria sardine and here in Uganda, it is called mukene. As seen in the previous photo, these fish are very small and can grow up to a maximum of 9 cm, while they are eaten whole when prepared.

From what I’ve read, this is a particularly healthy type of fish, so I asked Susan to have the young women responsible for cooking prepare it for us. It was very tasty and incredibly filling – a small amount kept me full all day and that evening I didn’t even have dinner.

Silver fish dish

I wasn’t on a diet, but I certainly didn’t want to overeat. As a matter of fact, I decided to use my stay in Uganda, far from the daily responsibilities I have at home where I’m always rushing to finish something, as an opportunity to get into a fitness routine. So, on the very first day, I bought a mat and I’m proud to say that I did exercises every day – two sets of stretching exercises for my spine and lubricating my joints in the morning, and Regen exercises in the evening. I was most satisfied with my perseverance and I must admit that I saw clear progress in some aspects, even in this short period.

Ready for the morning exercises

After my exercises, but before breakfast and heading to work, I would usually observe and photograph birds. However, one morning the sky was particularly beautiful, so I also took some pictures of that, too.

Morning in Masindi

I often encountered local residents going about their daily tasks, including an elegant young woman who skilfully carried a load on her head as she went to work in the fields. I always exchanged warm greetings with these people and as she approached, I asked her if it was alright to take her picture. She agreed and I am very grateful to her.

Elegance is not just for the evenings out

Speaking of evening outings (in reference to the caption under the previous photo), one of our colleagues had a birthday during our stay, so we all went out to a local club in the evening. It was lively and fun, and we enjoyed quite a bit of beer.

Club in Masindi

Enjoying the company, dance and beer at a club in Masindi

Of course, we all came here to work, but we also had a few free days and our wonderful hosts made sure to organise excursions for us during that time. So, at the first opportunity, we all went together to the Ziwa Rhino and Wildlife Ranch, or simply the Ziwa Rhino Sanctuary, near Mukerenge village.

This sanctuary is located about 50 km southeast of Masindi, on the way to Kampala. In other words, the sanctuary is about 170 km north of the capital city of Uganda.

You need to turn off the main road and then travel another nearly 3 km on a dirt road to reach the entrance of the sanctuary.

Road to the Ziwa Rhino Sanctuary

At the entrance to the Ziwa Rhino Sanctuary

This is a quite significant place for wildlife conservation, especially for rhinos, and therefore it attracts a considerable number of tourists. In any case, everyone who visits must adhere to certain rules, including the prescribed speed limits, as it's important to be cautious of rhinos on the road.

Ziwa Rhino Sanctuary, a detail

While we were buying tickets here, I took the opportunity to photograph a charming candelabra tree or naboom (Euphorbia ingens). Interestingly, the milky latex produced by this plant is highly toxic and can lead to blindness, among other issues. At the same time, the plant is used in medicine to treat certain conditions. That’s how life is – both sides are always somehow present. By the way, I'm referring to the tree in the foreground with a balloon-like canopy.

Candelabra tree

We first drove to the centre of the sanctuary, where we actually got a guide. There are also accommodations available there, since various lodging options are offered, as well as different tours and wildlife viewing experiences for observing the animals that live in the sanctuary.

Ziwa Rhino Sanctuary, a detail

We set out with the goal of finding and seeing rhinos, and along the way we also spotted a couple of other beautiful animals, both antelopes. One was the Ugandan kob (Kobus kob thomasi) and the other was the Cape bushbuck (Tragelaphus sylvaticus).

Ugandan kob

Cape bushbuck

Then we parked the car and set out on foot with the guide. Since the weather was dry, there was no need for rubber boots, but the guide was still wearing them, as we were walking through areas that could potentially be riverbeds.

Search for the rhinos

I must admit that I was quite amazed by the experience and the sensation of walking through the savannah and searching for rhinos on foot. Of course, I understand that rhinos are herbivores and have no interest in humans, but I didn’t expect we would be walking like this, so it was a pleasant surprise. On the other hand, the guide had already told us to be quiet and not to disturb the rhinos, as they can be aggressive, though only in an attempt to defend themselves from intrusive individuals.

Soon, the guide slowed down and showed us a group of rhinos resting in the shade. I was thrilled!

Rhinos in the Ziwa Rhino Sanctuary

Rhino in the Ziwa Rhino Sanctuary

Now, let me clarify what’s going on here. During the 1980s and 1990s, all rhinos in Uganda, that had previously been quite numerous and naturally inhabiting the country, were either exterminated or smuggled out of the country. This includes both black rhinos (Diceros bicornis michaeli) and white rhinos (Ceratotherium simum cottoni).

In 2005, the Ziwa Rhino Sanctuary was established, covering an area of about 70 sq. km with the goal of restoring the population of southern white rhinos (Ceratotherium simum simum). Initially, four white rhinos were imported from Kenya, followed by two from the USA. With the newborns and newcomers, the population began to slowly increase and as the guide told us, there are now around 40 rhinos which makes this project considered very successful. The long-term goal is to eventually reintroduce the rhinos into the wild, specifically into national parks.

Rhinos in the Ziwa Rhino Sanctuary

By the way, when talking about white and black rhinos, it’s important to note that their names don’t refer to their colour – all rhinos are actually gray. The main difference between them, which is easiest to observe, is the shape of their snouts.

Following the guide, we moved to another spot from which we could observe and photograph the same group of these magnificent animals.

Since it was almost noon, the sun was quite strong and it was hot. As the guide explained, rhinos don’t have sweat glands, so they cannot cool off by sweating. Instead, during the hottest part of the day, they retreat to the shade and rest there. However, because they are very heavy, if it gets too warm even in the shade, they can’t simply "turn to the other side" to cool down better; they need to stand up first and then move to another spot to change their position.

We were lucky that the rhinos decided to move to a different shaded area just when we were nearby, which allowed me to get better photos of them.

Rhinos in the Ziwa Rhino Sanctuary

Rhino in the Ziwa Rhino Sanctuary

Rhinos in the Ziwa Rhino Sanctuary

Rhino in the Ziwa Rhino Sanctuary

Not far from there, we saw another smaller group of rhinos also lying around in the shade.

Rhinos in the Ziwa Rhino Sanctuary

One was particularly well-positioned and since I was only about a dozen metres away, I was able to capture some great photos with my camera and, in the end, even some video footage.

Rhino in the Ziwa Rhino Sanctuary

Once I was back home, I edited a couple of video clips into a short film about the rhinos at the Ziwa Rhino and Wildlife Ranch.

We practically finished our tour of the rhino sanctuary here, so we first returned to the vehicle and then took the guide back to the centre of the sanctuary, thanking him for his assistance and the information he shared with us.

Meanwhile, one of our hosts pointed out a couple of plants to me. Unfortunately, I wasn’t able to find out their names either during my stay in Uganda or after I returned home, but that doesn’t make them any less intriguing in my memory.

The first plant is a larger shrub or small tree with small edible fruits. I can report that they were tasty and juicy, somewhat sweet and somewhat tangy. From what I’ve read, there are trends in some African countries to cultivate and commercialise native fruit species more extensively. I’m not sure if this would be one of those plants, but it was certainly interesting to eat a fruit from a plant that grows in the wild.

Plant unknown to me with edible fruits

The second plant wasn't eaten, but it was also "put in the mouth." It is another smaller tree or larger shrub, but in this case the thin branches are harvested and then a stick is broken off. One end is slightly peeled and the inner core is used as a toothbrush. It serves as a natural dental hygiene kit when you find yourself in the savannah without a toothbrush and toothpaste.

“Toothbrush” from the savannah

Supposedly, rubbing your teeth with the end of this twig can even whiten them. Seeing the perfect and brilliantly white teeth of my hosts certainly inspired me, but, of course, I didn't stay long enough in Uganda or use the twigs often enough to notice any change in the colour of my teeth. On the other hand, while we were returning to Masindi, I used the twig to brush my teeth and I can report that I think my teeth have rarely felt so clean. It’s important to note that I am someone who regularly brushes my teeth for over two minutes with a special toothbrush that I’ve found works best for me.

The return to Masindi went smoothly and the remainder of the day was spent resting and preparing for the new work week.

Return to Masindi

The next time we had a free day, our wonderful hosts organised a visit to the Murchison Falls National Park. I had been there before, as had a couple of my colleagues, but I can never get enough of nature and wildlife. So, I was thrilled and extremely happy.

Once again, as we did in October 2023 (see: https://www.svudapodji.com/en/uganda-2/), we first travelled to the entrance of this large park.

Entrance to Merchison Falls NP

I’m not planning to repeat the same information about this park that I included in the previously mentioned story from 2023. Instead, I will focus more on the impressions and encounters related to the visit in 2024.

While waiting for the tickets to be purchased, I first captured some interesting signs along the road – particularly a charming sign indicating that vehicles might come across monkeys.

Signs by the road

I knew they were baboons because we had seen them the previous year, but this time they were also near the entrance to the national park.

Young baboons in a tree top

Baboon near the entrance into the national park

Baboons near the entrance into the national park

I also spotted and photographed a couple of charming lesser striped-swallows (Cecropis abyssinica).

Lesser striped-swallows

After a brief stop at the entrance to the Murchison Falls National Park, we continued on our way. The road first passes through the Budongo Forest, which is a part of the national park and also an important chimpanzee reserve.

Merchison Falls NP: Budongo Forest

We didn’t see any chimpanzees, as they are deeper in the forest, but we often spotted baboons along the road and even on it.

Baboons on the road within Merchison Falls NP

Here, they not only enjoy sitting on the warm asphalt, but are also accustomed to being fed by passing tourists.

Baboons on the road within Merchison Falls NP

Baboon on the road within Merchison Falls NP

When a vehicle approaches, baboons usually move a little off the road, but some remain in place, especially if they are occupied with something, such as grooming their young.

Baboons on the road within Merchison Falls NP

Still, most of the road is clear and you can drive without worrying about obstacles.

Merchison Falls NP, a detail

At one point, the road begins to descend significantly, offering views of the flat expanses of the national park.

Merchison Falls NP, a detail

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