Revisiting griffon vultures, Uvac 2017
The first Saturday in September is the International Vulture Awareness Day. On this occasion, the Serbia’s Birds of Prey Protection Foundation organized a weekend visit to the Uvac canyon on 2 and 3 September 2017 (the Foundation may be contacted on Facebook under the name of “Fond za zaštitu ptica grabljivica” or through their website http://www.vulture.org.rs/).
The Uvac is a small river in the south-west of Serbia that is particularly known for its numerous meanders by which it cuts its way through occasionally creating a canyon with high cliffs. Several decades ago, the river was stopped by three dams, thus creating three reservoirs. Over time, this area was declared the Special Nature Reserve. Today, the main attraction within the special reserve is griffon vulture which was, thanks to the enthusiasm, hard work and perseverance of a few experts, brought from the brink of extinction in this part of Europe to the highest concentration on the Balkan peninsula.
Although I had already been there, I didn’t resist going for a weekend tour again, especially as I had this weekend completely free. And it was not a mistake to go again. It was great – fantastic people and great fun, boat rides, walks across meadows and through woods, visits to a couple of viewpoints and the feeding ground, all of this accompanied by top quality experts, as well as a special event and privilege – being present when a couple of griffon vultures were set free after their successful recovery!
The tour started very early on Saturday – at five o’clock! Still, as the mini-bus was not full, we could all spread a little and get some more sleep or just a nap. After a couple of hours, when it was already full daylight, we made the first break for a coffee in a restaurant at a reservoir of the Zapadna Morava river in the Ovcar-Kablar gorge. This gorge, one of the most beautiful in Serbia, is also known as Mala Sveta Gora (Little Holy Mount), as it holds some ten monasteries. It is presumed that monastic life here started as early as in the 13th century, but the first mentioning of any monastery here is linked to the 15th century.
After another couple of hours we reached mountain Zlatibor and as we started to descend it was already time for another break at a nearby small restaurant where it is possible to buy lepinja sa kajmakom (local pita-bread with salty cream) for breakfast. Kajmak (special Balkan salty cream) is one of the specialities of the area.
The next stop was in the very surroundings of the Uvac valley and after a short walk across meadows and through a forest we reached a viewpoint from which it was possible to look at the Uvac meanders belonging to Radoinjsko lake, the lowest of the three. Already here we could see a couple of griffon vultures that circled above us using the thermals.
After a while, we got back to the mini-bus and then went down to the shore of Radoinjsko lake itself. There we had to wait a little for the boats to bring back the other part of the entire group that had actually arrived there the day before. This part of the group consisted of experts from Bulgaria, Croatia and Greece, as well as their hosts from Serbia. Namely, the ornithologists from these four countries keep enhancing their cooperation, exchange the experience and try to figure out new ways how they can assist one another in making sure that as many griffon vultures as possible go back to as many sites in the Balkans as possible.
When they came back from their excursion and after we all greeted one another cordially, it was our turn to have a nice visit to the lake. We split into two boats and headed towards the meandering sections. But, lest there be any confusion, we were not left to our own devices, for all the time we had with us Irena, the Director of the Foundation.
Of course, when you are on a boat you do see that the riverbed sways, but you don’t get as clear a picture of the meanders as when you look at them from a viewpoint. Here, it is not allowed for unauthorized persons to enter the canyon until 1 August in order not to disturb the birds, as well as in order for the fish to have their own peace. After then, it is possible either to rent canoes and paddle or to go by organized motor-boats. It is always best to go with people from the Reserve – on the one hand they know how to explain things in detail and point at interesting aspects and on the other you are then sure that your presence and visit will not jeopardize the delicate balance in the nature.
As we entered the canyon, we started to notice griffon vultures on the surrounding cliffs.
Eventually we came by boat to those meanders that we saw earlier from the viewpoint (see again the first photo in this travelogue) and there we saw a few griffon vultures circling above our heads.
On our way back we continued to admire the canyon through which we passed, as well as the griffon vultures we saw on its cliffs.
After this gorgeous ride, we drove to Zlatarsko lake, also called Kokin brod lake, which is the second and the largest lake on the Uvac river. The main road linking Serbia and Montenegro goes across its dam. We met with the “expert” part of the group at a restaurant on the shore of the reservoir and there we had good time while sipping our refreshments. It was still interesting to see from there a large flock of cormorants and then also a group of over 50 griffon vultures circling in the distance, above the opposite shore of the lake.
As the day was getting closer to its end, we all went to a great place for ethno tourism that has several small wooden houses for accommodation, as well as a central dining room/restaurant with a huge balcony that boasts great view. We were all impressed, but it was already time for dinner and thus we only briefly enjoyed the sunset.
The weather forecast for the next day said “rain” and it was supposed to be continuous rain. And yet, when I woke up and got out, I was greeted by fresh, but still wonderful morning. I went down to the dining-room even before breakfast and while sipping coffee our hostess made for me while preparing the breakfast, I enjoyed the view that spread in all its glory in front of me.
When we finished with the breakfast, we first went to the feeding ground for griffon vultures. I have already described this place in my previous text on my visit to Uvac (see: https://www.svudapodji.com/en/birds-2/), so I will not go into that again. I would only say that there were fewer flies this time, but the stench was relentless. On the other hand, this feeding ground is a truly great place to have a meal, this admittedly applying only to vultures, bearing in mind the great view at the so-called Upper lake.
By the time we finished with this visit and went down to the lake, there was a partial dilemma as to what to do next, since clouds started to gather up in the sky and our hosts were informed of a storm in a nearby town, so it would not be wise to have us caught in a storm in the middle of the lake. For this reason, a decision was taken to go first to the cages in which griffon vultures found with an injury are kept until they get well. This time, there were two griffon vultures there that were actually quite fine now, so it turned out that we had the honour to be present when they were released after full recuperation.
These are big birds I’m talking about and it is not easy or without danger to catch them. Both Sasa and Nesa put on thick gloves and yet they were both scratched as they were trying to get hold of the vultures. Also, when the birds are taken from the cage, they are simply released and then they decide how to proceed further. One griffon vulture immediately flew off, but the other one seemed not to know what to do, so it climbed on a rock and then sort of went on foot, by hopping, behind the cage and up the hill, standing there for a while almost hiding in the bushes. Just as everyone started to wonder if it really recuperated well (although it had been scanned) and whether its right wing was functional, it jumped up and with a powerful sway of its wings it headed for the heights. It is particularly impressive when a griffon vulture, with its wing span that on an average reaches 2.80 m, flies so low above you.
And then we finally went back to Uvacko lake and the sky cleared up a little bit, but a very strong wind started to blow.
After some more pondering, our hosts decided that we were to go only for a short ride on a speedboat. As this lake is bigger than Radoinjsko and as the weather conditions were potentially more dangerous, we all had to put on safety vests and then we were ready. I simply adore rides like this and I get so happy as if I were a dog looking out through an open window of a moving car. Because of the wind the water drops created by the speedy ride sprayed on me quite a lot, but I didn’t mind it in the least.
We went beside both of the islands visible from the feeding ground and then we approached another section of the lake reachable by a narrow passage between two high cliffs. There we made a circle and went back. The ride was brief, but great!
We waited for the other group to make the same tour of the lake and then we all went to visit a woman whose family farm is located on top of an elevation. That farm is something I have already mentioned in my previous text on the visit to the Uvac. This time we also walked from the farm to the great viewpoint and there we enjoyed some more the fantastic scenery that included the Uvac canyon and the surrounding landscapes. As it turned out, we were very lucky that day and there was no rain at all in the parts where we were, but the clouds were there all the time and they supplemented the beauty that we saw around us.
After that we went back to the kind lady who offered us homemade apple brandy and coffee, while we all chatted joyfully and were relaxed. But, there was still lunch awaiting us, including great local speciality, cheese pie made of buckwheat pastry, so we had to leave. And then after having great lunch and with no more sightseeing left, we were ready to return to Belgrade.